First Build thread of 2015 and of the new Forum - Loretta

[joescoolcustoms]

Thank you Mike! Brian and I discussed the fact that the New Manx Club site would be a good place to post this build. Since we are trying to get it as "THE" buggy resource, this thread will have some unique problems, some basic stuff, and some everyday stuff to building a buggy. I try to be very descriptive so it can be referenced. I also like doing things in a simple approach, which usually makes it cheap to replicate the process for someone.

We hope it helps people in the future.

[surfnc]

Damn your good! That was an awesome write and example.

X2

[abgiles]

While it appears that Joe is doing all of the work on Loretta, I'm actually doing some of the work myself. Yes, the major upgrades/modifications/repairs, are being done by the Zen Buggy Master, I do have some input.

I did work on her powerplant (at least the one that I believe will be going into her) some yesterday. I do have a stock 1600dp motor out of a 1977 Beetle that I purchased from a friend about a year ago. I helped him remove and replace his motor (he upgraded to a turnkey 1915), and I got a great deal on the previously fuel injected AS-41 1600dp. Since it was running just fine before we removed it, and he was keeping the fuel injection setup to modify for his new motor, I found a set of very gently used Kadron 40's from one of the Facebook pages (can't remember which one) for a great price.

Wesley came over and we changed out the spark plugs, modified my motor test stand (hadn't been set up for an electric pump), and tried to get her running. Since I believe that I left my known good coil in SC, I had to use one that was sitting around, set it all up, and tried to get her going.

Attempt 1 failed when we had no fuel pressure, and realized that the diaphragm of the pump was leaking into the pump casing, and spilling on the ground. A trip to Autozone, and we had a small plastic Mr. Gasket pump to use for the day. The first pump was one that I had removed a few years ago from the Veep I owned, so I'm assuming that sitting filled with whatever gas had been in it deteriorated the diaphragm.

Attempt 2 was a little better, as we had fuel flow, but had a small leak at the inlet of the left side carb intake. It was very small, and we wrapped it and continued. Static timing was dead on, but we just couldn't get her to fire. It sounds like this was quick, but in all actuality, due to a couple of silly mistakes in the setup of the initial electric pump and a couple of others, we stopped at this point, which was about 3 1/2 hours in. Wesley was fine to keep going, but I had agreed to take the test stand to his place to test his motor and I had also promised the Tanya we would go out with some friends for dinner, since it was Valentine's Day. It was more important to me to get his running at this point since he's a lot closer to being completed than I am.

We went over the Wesleys, took his motor off his chassis, installed the exhaust, added the oil (although he doesn't post updates, he had taken the motor completely apart, checked it out, cleaned the heck out of it, and put it back together), and attempted to fire it up. We encountered no flow in the right side carb (he's got the same dual Kadron 40's), and after about an hour, we had that fixed. After a few attempts, she fired up. It was a little rough at first, but within a couple of minutes he had her running strong

[abgiles]

I had pondered on which Manx emblem to use on Loretta, and took an idea that Bud shared with me, and am combining it with something that Joe mentioned above. In the rear bumper is a 2" receiver that I'll be using to allow me to take a storage basket for long trips. When that's not in place, Joe recommended some sort of Manx Emblem on there. Since I have two nose badges (one original to the 60's with the (R), and one from the early 90's with no copyright or registered symbol, I thought I'd take the time to restore them like Bud did, and use one for the rear bumper.

I'll post what I'm doing for the one I have with me, and do the one for the rear bumper similarly.

I started out at Michael's, buying a number of Testors model paints. I bought more than I think I needed, but I am doing two of these, so I wanted to have enough on hand. The only sticking point is that they only had the flat white, not the gloss white. There's a hobby lobby near my place in SC, so I'll see if they have it on the way back. I purchased a number of yellows, as I wasn't sure which one would be the closest match.

Pictured here are the tools I started with. I purchased the plastic epoxy that is the solid form, not liquid, so that I could better control it, and it has a faster drying time. The files are for roughing up the inside of the hole, so that the epoxy has a better bonding surface. I'm not sure if it helped at all or not, since it was so small, but why not try it. I purchased a number of fine brushes, and some extremely fine sponge brushes to try and get in the middle of the letters. Bud said that he used toothpicks, but since I saw these, I thought I'd give it a try.



I cleaned the badge with a toothbrush and dish soap, roughed up the hole a little with my small file, air dried it overnight, and got to work this morning. I taped up the back to put the epoxy in through the front, then realized I had it backwards. I taped the front, got the epoxy ready, and pushed it through the back hole. With the tape still on, I used a small flat edge to push back on the tape from the front to get it as flush as possible with the badge face.



I had to let the epoxy dry for a few hours, pulled the tape, and did my best to sand it smooth. Once that was done, I cleaned it again with a wet paper towel, let it dry, then shot it with the black metallic base that I wanted for the edges. It's drying as I type.


There is a small spot where you can tell that when I sanded the front, it wasn't perfect. I'll sand it down just a bit more before the white paint goes on.

[joescoolcustoms]

Thank you Vince! I try and raise my own bar each time I build one of these fun buggy's.

Make it your own Brian, and you will enjoy it more. Emblem looks good.

Dang! It is cold, snow half way up my legs, our hill covered in snow and my wife not liking to drive in it, so, the retired dude becomes a chauffeur, morning and evening.

In order of fabrication progression, I like to keep one step ahead of myself. I am getting close to having all done that I can do with the chassis and body on the fab table. So once it comes off the table, it is roll cage time. To start the roll cage, I need to install the windscreen to establish where the two main hoops will be located not only in angle, but also in spacing to fit the TJ Kustoms Sombrero top. The many PO's of this body must have mounted 4 different windscreens with all the holes drilled for it in the side of the hood. When I repaired the fuel filler hole and "air vent" hole in the hood, I also prepped and laid in 4 layers of mat on the inside of the area where the windscreen bolts go through the hood/dash split. Now the exterior holes need repaired.

For small repairs like snap holes and drilled holes, Cabosil mixed with resin is a really good repair medium. Cabosil, (Also called Fumed Silica or Microspheres) are basically micro ground glass, which is one of the prime ingredients of a fiberglass buggy. Once mixed with resin, (the other main ingredient) to a peanut butter like consistency, it makes a good "body filler" for FG Buggy repairs. This stuff is not suited for large, deep or structural repairs, but is good for where you would normally use a Bondo style body filler.



Remember back when I stated a clean, fresh surface is needed before applying fiberglass/resin? That still applies. Some basic tools I use for the small work are 1/4 inch shank grinding burrs. I have various shapes where I also port heads. Unless you are going to do a lot of metal shaping work with these burrs, the cheap harbor freight units are fine for glass work. Chuck it in a drill motor and grind the glass to get that fresh surface needed.





Massive and deep ground out areas are not always needed. This is a cosmetic repair, not structural.







Be careful using this Cabosil due to it's really lightness and ability to become airborne. I highly recommend using a respirator when handling this material. I get a little out, mix the resin in to a body filler thickness, add hardner and apply like body filler.







Since a little goes a long way, (if the repair is large, repair with mat/resin to get it close and minimize the amount needed of this filler, it will make a nicer and longer last repair), I prep a lot of area and use the mixed Cabosil until it is gone.







Looks like I am really sloppy, doesn't it? Well, yes I am. But remember the statement about needing a fresh ground surface for the resin to properly bond too? That is also helpful in this instance in that all that extra lopped over the gel coat will not stick once hardened and I can pick it off that slick surface with my fingernail leaving only the repair area I ground/filled with the hardened mixed Cabosil. Pretty slick! Next is to just sand the repair. But a little warning, that Cabosil sets up as hard as glass. (Yes the pun was intended) What can happen is it will be so hard that during sanding, you sand away the softer gel coat around your repair leaving a high spot and a wavey surface. Always use a stiff sanding block, go slow, take your time and it will turn out really nice.



All that is left is a application of Slick Sand, (also a Polyester based material to match the body material) and start the final body prep. And I can now mount the windscreen.

Another tip, during cold weather, it make hours, or in my case, days for the resin to cure in the Cabosil mix.

[joescoolcustoms]

Finishing up more fab on the chassis/body. Loretta, to the best of my knowledge, has never had a fuel tank support. Even if it did, it would no longer fit due to the lifted body. No problem. Two risers and a long section of angle iron make a nice strong front body/tank support. (look at those crappy tack welds on top. )



Since this buggy was "Knighted" Loretta based on the original front bumper looking like a set of lips, and Chris Lewis then calling it Hot Lips from the old TV Show MASH, the name of Loretta stuck, (named after the actress Loretta Switt who played the part of Hot Lips Houlihan).



The old white bumper mounted to the thin shock towers, was slightly bent and really needed replaced. Brian wanted to keep that same persona for this buggy. I like a secure, tough bumper that can actually function if called upon. A little different look, tucked up tight and neat, but still paying homage to the original design and keep that persona.





1 inch 0.120 wall DOM tubing that is really strong. Bolted to the beam tubes, braced off of the lower tube so it will not twist up and down if towed with, sat or stepped on. A small 1/2 inch DOM brace discreetly hidden between the tubes for tube spacing strength. This brace design will allow Brian to use a really nice custom tow bar he got with Loretta. (Will show up later) The upper clamps are notched to allow the zerk grease fitting to remain in their original location.








Roll Cage is up next!

[rzeller]

Joe, I really like your interpretation of Brian's previous front bumper. It is different from other bumpers I've seen on buggies and adds a unique styling characteristic. Nice work.

[marklandon]

Joe Well done keep up the great work

[joescoolcustoms]

Thanks Bud and Mark!

I really want to see it on the ground with wheels. It looks a touch out of place to me, but it is high up in the air with nothing around it. I think it will look good once everything is on it and painted. And it is definitely different than anything I have seen either.

[abgiles]

I love the way it looks, and I'm sure once it has the wheels, paint, etc.. it will look even better. Here's TSFR's comment that I think is the exact words I was trying to think of:

[abgiles]

Going to try and finish up the emblem this weekend, as it's too cold to go out today. I don't have the luxury of a heated shop at the moment, so I'll stay in piddle around indoors. Tomorrow is supposed to be much warmer, so I can get back to the motor.

[abgiles]

Well,
I fell down on the painting of the emblem. I forgot to take the paints and emblem back to SC with me, as I was in a hurry to get back and sell that Super Beetle. It had quite a bit of debris (metal) in the oil when I changed it. Between that and the rod knocking like nothing I've ever heard, I was pretty sure the motor was done for. I did buy it for what I saw, and not the motor, and was able to make a few dollars to help defray the cost of some of this build.

I also sold the buggy that I had purchased for Tanya. We're consolidating, and getting rid of most of the VW stuff except for Loretta. We'll be building her a Manxter in the future. If all goes well, I'll be ordering it towards the end of the year.

I have looked at the Emblem a few times, and like the sparkly look of it with the Gloss Black Metallic spray from Testors. I think I may just keep it like that.

[joescoolcustoms]

The most important part of a buggy build are the brakes. No matter how fast, or even if it barely moves, it has to stop or someone can be hurt or killed. The brakes will come almost last in this build. Next on priorities is the chassis. It has to be strong and sound for a buggy to be safe and handle reasonably well. Except for some minor details that will get finished up once the chassis in on the rotisserie, it is complete.

The most important visual aspect is the roll cage, (if there is to be one). A buggy with a crappy paint job and mis-matched wheels can still look good with a nicely designed cage, and conversely, a buggy with a show winning paint job can be drug down by a cage that does not flow and add to the buggy's original design. A full roll cage in a open buggy draws the eyes to it and it is a prominent feature exposed for everyone to see. It shows the personality of the vehicle past what the body design is. If you are reading this, you most likely already consider that Bruce Meyers hit the design home run with these fiberglass buggy designs. And I do not mean only the Manx, but 90% of the Manx inspired clones posses that same design element.

Brian gave me a few indications as to what he wants out of his cage. Not only for personal taste, but the intended use of Loretta. Nothing wild, but more of the aspect of the buggy's original design, keep it simple. Brian wanted to be able to get in/out with out contorting like a circus performer in Vegas. He also wanted to be able to use the rear seat for his family. We all know that the original design is a package trey and not designed as a seat, but, Brian does not want to run down the highway with his family in the back, but, take them along on instances like the beach cruise at the MC Manx On The Banx event or a cruise through a park. Slow speed for enjoyment, not transportation. So, the rear needs to be open enough for access and riding comfort, (OK, what comfort can be obtained in that area).

With a simple cage, it is two main hoops, front and rear. I like Bruce's design of the Manx style roll bar with it's 6.58* angle on the upper portion. It is a touch of flair and narrows are the height increases, so, that is the shape of the second main hoop. The front hoop is more dictated by the design of the windscreen and shape of the inside of the body. I try to hug those two elements very close for maximum viewing through the windscreen and also for creature space inside. To get the maximum space, I place the bottom/feet of the hoops on the body lip. Steel cannot be welded direct to fiberglass, instead, a 1/4 inch thick X 2 inch wide plate steel is contoured to the shape of the inside body profile and bolted to the chassis rectangular tubing for maximum strength. Then the hoops are welded to this plate. Same for the rear.





WOW! That looks like a dog pile! But, it is just fitting and checking. Lots of fitting and checking. Better too tall than too short. Brian won a Sombrero from TJ Kustoms at MOTB '14 and he ordered the 41 inch version. The 41 inches is the measurement from the leading windscreen slot edge to the center of the rear main hoop, (or roll bar if no cage), this one is set up for 41 inches exactly.

After trimming to proper height. The masking tape and gravity is all the holds the rear main hoop allowing positioning as needed until satisfied.





I am 6' 2" and have plenty of head room to the cage for safety reasons. The seat actually has more rearward movement, but I had to pull it slightly forward to be comfortable.





Notice that I am looking through the center of the windscreen, not the top of the windscreen.



Since the shape and position of those two hoops are pretty much a given, no need to bother Brian on that aspect. But, from here forth, I mocked up several options for Brian to look at and relay what he wanted to final look to be. 1 1/2 inch wide tape, aluminum strap, pieces of scrap tubing, wood shims and so forth help give a visual.

Started with this:





And that was OK. But Brian wanted to see what a little kink and bend may look like. That is easy to accomplish:



And then with some tape on it, and more tape on the top:



We have a plan! That was easy, now to just to make it, and make it flow like the body does.

A while back, someone asked me how I do this and don't make mistakes. My reply was that I do make mistakes, lots of them, I just do not photo them. So, here are some flubs.

Because I am cheap, I made my stand for my tubing bender. In short sight, I could not bend a roll in a hoop because it was not tall enough and one side hit the floor. So, I welded up a bolt on riser lifting it up high enough I can get a kink in the legs of a hoop:



Here is another. First attempt at the top section, uggh!





Second attempt, still not hitting the mark, and crooked to boot!



Finally, hit the mark.



Since I work by myself, and only having 2 hands, I make up things to help me. Like ways of holding something while a measure and tack weld. This boxed tube holds the upper bars dead level in plane with the F&R hoops.



Here I use several pieces of scraps, wood shims, patterns, cheap protractors to establish bend angles and length's.



This rear section has the most amount of time in it than any other piece on the roll cage. It had to be dead on with the rear of the body so people following Brian do not see uneven gaps. It has to be positioned to not intrude upon the passengers in the rear. It had to compliment Bruce's body design and closely hug it. To some, I am preaching to the choir, but, these old body's are not dimensionally perfect. I built a rear section that was. It did not fit!!!! This is the reason all the extra time was spent on this one piece of tubing. After I made it, I had to tweak it to fit all of the contours so it looks perfect. A well done roll cage is a compromise, (not wanting to get into a argument about compromise of safety, that is not what is ment in that statement) with the body to give the impression of being perfect. So, to look at this finished cage, it looks dead on, but is not. It is custom to this body and most likely will not fit another body in a different state of warpedness.







Located just outside of the passenger compartment.



Both sides follow, crookedly, the body evenly to where it looks perfectly made.



The rear follows Bruce's sloping, fast looking while sitting still profile.



A good full roll cage will tie into the suspension making a "bridge" effect adding strength to the chassis and not just weight. Even though this tube is inside the passenger compartment, the human body is shaped in a rounded style and you cannot shove yourself into the corner where this tube resides connecting the cage to the chassis from underneath. And once the rear cushion is added, it moves you farther away from the tube too.





The rear tubes also have the 6.58* side angle to match the rear main hoop as you move to the rear. They also taper inward to match the body width taper that starts at the rear main hoop and gets more narrow as you follow to the rear of the body.



The openness was achieved for the rear passengers to enjoy the buggy with their family.





The tubing flows and transfers from the windscreen all the way back to the rear suspension tie in.



As Bruce's design rises to the rear, the roll cage gently rises, then slopes back down to give that illusion of speed even while parked. That was one of the design criteria that Bruce told me he built in the buggy. "It needs to look like it is moving, even in the parking lot".



A custom roll cage is a lot of work, requires good welding skills to be safe, a quality bender to not compromise the strength of the tubing in the bends and good math skills. It also includes a lot of thought to the final look so it compliments what is already there.

[Siggymanx33]

Great work Joe!

[abgiles]

It's going to be real fun taking that cage out when I get ready to go to paint, and then having to put it back in. I need to buy more ratchet straps....

I love the way it looks!