Does anyone here know if the maker of these Manx wiring harnesses is a club member? My manx project is a basketcase so I will be starting from scratch and I stumbled on this option so anyone's thoughts or opinion's would be very welcome. I'm also very interested in suggestions if people have better options. Thanks -- Eric
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121585454353?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT
Manx wiring harness options?
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wesallen85
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:55 pm
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
Dune Buggy Brothers is based out of Fernandina Beach, Fl. They do good work. They are part of the FB club page, but not on here I believe. However, those harnesses are built to order specifications. You tell them everything you are running in your buggy and they will build it and cost will reflect how much extra than basic you are going. Rebelwire has been great to many ManxClub members. Look into that for a flat price as well!
-Wesley
-Wesley
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
Thanks so much, that info is very helpful and I appreciate it.
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ManxManiac
- Posts: 200
- Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:00 am
- Location: Ventura, CA
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
I've always made my own wiring harnesses!!! The only pre-made wiring harnesses I've installed were made by Ron Francis Wiring Works!!! They do cost more, but IMO, well worth it!!! F/G buggies do not have complicated electrical needs, other than they need a really efficient ground system!!! Our buggy Xena is grounded so well, you can use any metal on her for a ground!!!
I know of a number of buggies that use the wiring harness you have the link to & have not heard any complaints!!!
Be sure to give us an update on which brand you purchased & your opinion of it!!!
I know of a number of buggies that use the wiring harness you have the link to & have not heard any complaints!!!
Be sure to give us an update on which brand you purchased & your opinion of it!!!
Michael Cates
ManxManiac
#958
Ventura, CA
Original Meyers Manx "Xena"
M1609C8S22
ManxManiac
#958
Ventura, CA
Original Meyers Manx "Xena"
M1609C8S22
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
Not sure if I inserted the gallery photo correctly. I reserve final judgement until 2016 when I get to the point where I can use the harness but tell me if that heatshrink and labeling isn't something of beauty? So far.....so pleased.
Oh and yes I got the version from ebay from the guys in Fernandina beach (?) FL.
I did some tear down last weekend and am done for awhile so when I start in earnest on the build in 2016 I'll start a build thread. Thanks for the help on here guys, I appreciate it. -- Eric
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
They did a full pan for me with a body lift. Mine is chassis #6 and it's beautiful and equally expensive. 
Here is a photo of the chassis as well as a photo of some nice gentleman that was there when I went to pick it up.
Here is a photo of the chassis as well as a photo of some nice gentleman that was there when I went to pick it up.
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
Ok firstly they are offering their looms at a price point I could never get to and the cost of the materials I put into a loom is more than what they are charging. The reason I point this out isn't because I need the work but because people need to understand that you get what you pay for. They are listed at $240 and say it takes 12 hrs so you are getting them at $16 which is way cheap and no respecting qualified professional would do jack for $16 an hour. At $16 an hr X 12 hrs = $192 so they are charging $192 worth of labour leaving $48 worth of materials. So by their own sums they are using very cheap components.
They mention in their listing over 90 solder points like this is something to be proud of ... solder in Automotive applications has a very limited area of use with good reason. To suggest this 90 point thing is good is bad and shows a lot about what level they are aimed at. There are some applications where you can't avoid it and there are steps you take to make it acceptable, 90 in a VW loom is not acceptable and will cause issues. Solder creates fatigue points and increases failers. It make it brittle and often breaks. Solder is at home on boards, and static loom applications not buggies. To solder a crimp terminal is stupid as if you terminate correctly it detracts from the crimp function so defeats the purpose.
SXL grade wire is a good thing and depending on brand and SAE compliance it will be rated to handle the heat and have enough wall thickness to suit the application, far from what the empi looms use, thumbs up to them.
They have been doing them for a while and if memory serves me correctly they use to be sub $100 when they first came out and have worked their way up to where they are now, also means they are selling them and not having to many issues.
Compared to the other stuff on the market I would use one if I had to over Empi and the other limited universal setups. The multi circuit looms from places like American Autowire are around double what these guys are charging so there is value in their work don't get me wrong.
My buggy wiring starters at $950 installed and we do not do DIY Kits. We offer lifetime support and if any loom we do gets issue etc then we fix it free of charge for as long as you own the vehicle. This covers damage as well since if the loom gets damaged it wasn't correct so we fix it free.
As a DIY option I think they are good value BUT I would expect to have to tweak some parts which they plan on by using loom wrap over electrical tape.
Wire labels are common practice but I am not a big fan of flag labeling as they tend to fall off and fade out over time. We print and heat shrink.
As far as fuse boxes go to put one of those exposed terminal universal spade terminal blocks in a buggy from the outset makes me wanna cry ... there are so many better options that look so much better ..
But as I said they are at a price point where I could not do what I do and not have it cost me money so it is not far to compare what we do to what they offer. Doing DIY looms is a talent in itself and something we do not currently offer with good reason as every buggy is a bit different and I hate not being able to run the wires like I want and add stuff in anywhere the customer wants
Things like Tow car hook ups would just make a pre fab loom a PITA to do
Same with hood disconnects and sub looms
Not to mention how you go dealing with things like Manx Number plate lights which could be in so many different places
BUT please do not read this as me saying their looms are crap and not worth the money, they are and for the $200 odd they are charging you could save yourself a lot of time and learning. I am just adding this post to show there are lots of options and the post was about Manx Wiring Options.
They mention in their listing over 90 solder points like this is something to be proud of ... solder in Automotive applications has a very limited area of use with good reason. To suggest this 90 point thing is good is bad and shows a lot about what level they are aimed at. There are some applications where you can't avoid it and there are steps you take to make it acceptable, 90 in a VW loom is not acceptable and will cause issues. Solder creates fatigue points and increases failers. It make it brittle and often breaks. Solder is at home on boards, and static loom applications not buggies. To solder a crimp terminal is stupid as if you terminate correctly it detracts from the crimp function so defeats the purpose.
SXL grade wire is a good thing and depending on brand and SAE compliance it will be rated to handle the heat and have enough wall thickness to suit the application, far from what the empi looms use, thumbs up to them.
They have been doing them for a while and if memory serves me correctly they use to be sub $100 when they first came out and have worked their way up to where they are now, also means they are selling them and not having to many issues.
Compared to the other stuff on the market I would use one if I had to over Empi and the other limited universal setups. The multi circuit looms from places like American Autowire are around double what these guys are charging so there is value in their work don't get me wrong.
My buggy wiring starters at $950 installed and we do not do DIY Kits. We offer lifetime support and if any loom we do gets issue etc then we fix it free of charge for as long as you own the vehicle. This covers damage as well since if the loom gets damaged it wasn't correct so we fix it free.
As a DIY option I think they are good value BUT I would expect to have to tweak some parts which they plan on by using loom wrap over electrical tape.
Wire labels are common practice but I am not a big fan of flag labeling as they tend to fall off and fade out over time. We print and heat shrink.
As far as fuse boxes go to put one of those exposed terminal universal spade terminal blocks in a buggy from the outset makes me wanna cry ... there are so many better options that look so much better ..
But as I said they are at a price point where I could not do what I do and not have it cost me money so it is not far to compare what we do to what they offer. Doing DIY looms is a talent in itself and something we do not currently offer with good reason as every buggy is a bit different and I hate not being able to run the wires like I want and add stuff in anywhere the customer wants
Things like Tow car hook ups would just make a pre fab loom a PITA to do
Same with hood disconnects and sub looms
Not to mention how you go dealing with things like Manx Number plate lights which could be in so many different places
BUT please do not read this as me saying their looms are crap and not worth the money, they are and for the $200 odd they are charging you could save yourself a lot of time and learning. I am just adding this post to show there are lots of options and the post was about Manx Wiring Options.
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
FWIW (for the group) I was pleased with the work that Brad/Nate did on my pan and I did not know they offered wire loom options when I bought the set up on eBay.
On my '69 Early Bronco project back in 2009 I bought a painless wiring set up. On my '69 Manx project I wanted to use a Manx specialist. This thread is a great place to note Brads work/setup.
Second baby girl arrived 2 weeks ago so work on the Manx continues to be in a holding pattern....we are getting close to NORRA this year and next year will be the 50th anniversary so with luck, time and $$$ I hope to run it down the peninsula then.
Thanks Brad for the photos of your set up, looks really nice. -- Eric
On my '69 Early Bronco project back in 2009 I bought a painless wiring set up. On my '69 Manx project I wanted to use a Manx specialist. This thread is a great place to note Brads work/setup.
Second baby girl arrived 2 weeks ago so work on the Manx continues to be in a holding pattern....we are getting close to NORRA this year and next year will be the 50th anniversary so with luck, time and $$$ I hope to run it down the peninsula then.
Thanks Brad for the photos of your set up, looks really nice. -- Eric
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
No probs Eric, congrats on the daughter that will take way more time than any wiring loomenesset wrote:FWIW (for the group) I was pleased with the work that Brad/Nate did on my pan and I did not know they offered wire loom options when I bought the set up on eBay.
On my '69 Early Bronco project back in 2009 I bought a painless wiring set up. On my '69 Manx project I wanted to use a Manx specialist. This thread is a great place to note Brads work/setup.
Second baby girl arrived 2 weeks ago so work on the Manx continues to be in a holding pattern....we are getting close to NORRA this year and next year will be the 50th anniversary so with luck, time and $$$ I hope to run it down the peninsula then.
Thanks Brad for the photos of your set up, looks really nice. -- Eric
If you get to the point of wanting to do it yourself I can help you out with parts and info to make it happen. The labor is very much what puts the price up as it simply takes time to make it neat and correct.
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
sorry i'm very late to this question. a stock vw beetle wire harness works great. you can find one cheap in a swap meet. all the colored wires match a vw wire diagram found in factory manual. you could buy one new also.
the harness will be longer since the buggy has been shortened and you should have plenty of wire left over. the stock vw fuse box works fine just carry spare fuses. heres the deal: once wired you shouldn't have to worry about it again. the only fuses I ever replaced were of a headlight that when burnt out tripped a fuse. otherwise none. you can get fancy but usually no one sees it. at the engine all wires fit a stock motor. no length difference. I run my harness inside buggy beside seat like a bug and cover it with carpet. you should learn this its not that bad. get an early print bently manual for 1968 it has colored diagram. wire one wire at a time. then the next one, and before you know it your done. I have done it many times and recognize the colors. the 12 volt harness lines up from the back seat where the voltage regulator is. go to dash and trim to fit location of fuse where you want it. I drill a hole low in body or hole close to where brake line goes through to get to the rear. to front I send wires next to where steer shaft goes through body. I am simplifying instructions, but the point is you can do it yourself inexpensively if you want. I was very intimidated my first time now I can wire one using roll wires from harbor freight for $50.00. yes I am a cheap guy. hope this helps but you probably have it done by now, if not ask I can get very detailed. buggy on and keep smiling.
the harness will be longer since the buggy has been shortened and you should have plenty of wire left over. the stock vw fuse box works fine just carry spare fuses. heres the deal: once wired you shouldn't have to worry about it again. the only fuses I ever replaced were of a headlight that when burnt out tripped a fuse. otherwise none. you can get fancy but usually no one sees it. at the engine all wires fit a stock motor. no length difference. I run my harness inside buggy beside seat like a bug and cover it with carpet. you should learn this its not that bad. get an early print bently manual for 1968 it has colored diagram. wire one wire at a time. then the next one, and before you know it your done. I have done it many times and recognize the colors. the 12 volt harness lines up from the back seat where the voltage regulator is. go to dash and trim to fit location of fuse where you want it. I drill a hole low in body or hole close to where brake line goes through to get to the rear. to front I send wires next to where steer shaft goes through body. I am simplifying instructions, but the point is you can do it yourself inexpensively if you want. I was very intimidated my first time now I can wire one using roll wires from harbor freight for $50.00. yes I am a cheap guy. hope this helps but you probably have it done by now, if not ask I can get very detailed. buggy on and keep smiling.
Re: Manx wiring harness options?
Pretty sure the guys at Rebel are Manx Club guys and offer a 10% discount.