Manx Club

I have to ask i need to run brake lines of course and it feeds to a block in the rear correct splits off from there right. I take it stainless lines are a good way to go. I am going to run discs so i need a master cylinder and lines the block. i guess i am asking what do i need to do  this and should this be metric? Some of this i just dont know. Also how do you add a avatar

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=91    

Gary,,This is the master and reservoir I'm using,,

And this is the kit I used http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=415  And here is your T http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=451also these http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=449

Gary, check out this thread I posted in another section about SS brake lines:



http://www.manxclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=190

This guy does good work in making custom hard and soft lines.



--louis

Gary. The hard lines have a metric bubble flare on the ends. Do not confuse them with double flares. They are very different and they will leak when mixed. With disc brakes I think you will need to use a residual valve.

Thanks for the help the residual valve should balance the pressure from front to back correct.

Louis how did you know the lengths to give him since your going to be bending them to fit.

Gary,



I recall quite a few threads on the old forums where the disc brake conversion was a frequently discussed topic. What I've picked up over the last few years is that with disc brakes you need a residual valve to maintain brake feel when you step on the pedal. Without it you will find the pedal goes to the floor the first time you step on the brakes. Not really what you want. I don't know what size you need, maybe a 2lb or even a 10lb, I'm not sure. This may even be affected by what master cylinder you use, Bug or Ghia.



When I first began my buggy build odyssey I seriously debated the disc vs. drum issue. I ended up sticking with the stock drum set up but swapped the wheel cylinders from front to rear and rear to front. This has worked out great for me and if I maintain a good brake adjustment I have a nice firm pedal with good braking.

The residual valve keeps the brake fluid from draining out of the rear brake system. This happens when you have the master cylinder lower than the rear wheel cylinder. (Gravity) A proportioning valve can be used to set the bias front to rear which is useful when you have tires that are smaller/narrower in the front than in the rear which is common with a buggy.



For my measurements I just measured a stock set of lines for my year of car. Everything but the main line that runs from the MC to the rear T will be the same length. For that line I just subtracted the length I removed from the pan. (I included a little extra length in my measurements for a margin of error.) Another option would be to buy a cheap stock replacement for your year and have the SS lines made to the same length.





--louis

Louis how did you get a hold of this guy on samba. i am not seeing a way to contact him. I would say the master is juat maybe a litte higher on the berrien chassis than the rear cylinders MAYBE. Thanks for your imput gentleman. I want disc  because that is the way i want to go. It is more money but that is the way it goes. I do remember my brothers buggy lockings wheels easy because there was no weight to the buggy anymore once you removed the body. So i would think a proportioning valve would be needed maybe not. Then the question is are the lines you buy have to be metric and is the disc brake conversions set up for metric and i seen the tee in the rear can be metric. I have seen valves that are NPT threads are they all like that? This is stuff i dont know. i dont want to buy something off one guy and find out it wont with work something else.  Gary

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part ... Rank%7cAsc ,, Then all you need to do is get 2 adaptors to fit the VW line to the valve 

Tim do you know were to find everything LOL  Thanks  Gary

Gary1719 wrote:Louis how did you get a hold of this guy on samba. i am not seeing a way to contact him. I would say the master is juat maybe a litte higher on the berrien chassis than the rear cylinders MAYBE. Thanks for your imput gentleman. I want disc  because that is the way i want to go. It is more money but that is the way it goes. I do remember my brothers buggy lockings wheels easy because there was no weight to the buggy anymore once you removed the body. So i would think a proportioning valve would be needed maybe not. Then the question is are the lines you buy have to be metric and is the disc brake conversions set up for metric and i seen the tee in the rear can be metric. I have seen valves that are NPT threads are they all like that? This is stuff i dont know. i dont want to buy something off one guy and find out it wont with work something else.  Gary

HotrodVW can make the lines with any ends you want if you need to mix and match to add a proportioning valve. When you click on the link to his profile you will see a section that says "contact" and under that "Private Message". Click on the button beside "Private Message" and you will be able to send him a message. You may have to be logged in to do it.

--louis

Pacific Customs can also hook you up with all you need to do the job,,,http://www.pacificcustoms.com/an-fittings.html

heres a nice set up I found on Samba,,

That is a very clean setup.



--louis