New tanks w/relocated filler

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sun Jan 01, 2006 7:36 pm

Just for the record...I ran my Chevy pickup for 6 years using radiator hose for the fuel tank filler...( I was disgusted with the Chevy dealer ordering the wrong parts) I finally found what I needed in a junk yard. The hose looked almost as good when I took it out as it did when I installed it.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Sun Jan 01, 2006 7:45 pm

Congrats Jerry you are a "do'er" :rock: :rock: :rock:

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Sun Jan 01, 2006 8:06 pm

Hey Murz, I think NAPA has radiator hoses. :laugh1: Just kidding. Good Luck

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 2:54 pm

So, you can use a radiator hose on an air cooled car.

Yea, I am going to get a chrome muffler bearing for the steering column. I heard 1 7/8" works great....NAPA stocks them!! :laugh1: :laugh1: :laugh1:

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 4:45 pm

I just wish I could figure out how to stop the coolant leak my buggy has been plagued with since day one.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 4:58 pm

Jerry, Buy some powdered type stop leak. Rev the engine to 4000rpm then poor the stop leak into the fan intake. That should do it. Glad I could help.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 6:16 pm

When I used to sell auto parts a million years ago, Gates fuel fill hose was outrageously expensive and you had to buy it in a 3' length. Most applications only required a 6" or less piece so I expect that's why a lot of people used radiator hose. You might luck out, tho, and find a chunk still attached to a fuel filler at your favorite junkyard. However, most of the junkyards I've been to lately remove the tanks before the cars ever get out to the yard. I'd still be tempted to revisit the copper pipe idea. I could see where it would be a problem if your fuel filler is already cut in the hood and you're trying to align to it. Might be easier to trailer the whole thing to your tank guy(no relation to "Tank Girl", I'm sure) and let him do the final alignment, but then there's the cost/hassle factor.

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:07 pm

It still sounds like the best/simplest solution is to block off (weld) the old filler, relocate(weld) a short 2" dia. filler neck tube on the top aft side of the tank and connect it with a short straight length of fuel hose to a quality filler cap assembly mounted on the hood. It will give maximum fuel capacity and if correctly assembled have about zero chance of ever leaking. A fuel tank, which is located fairly close to the back side of your instrument panel isn't something you want to experiment with "maybe good enough" components. The best tank to weld on is a new one, but old ones can be safely welded if they are filled with water.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 3:25 pm

Hi Cairomanx this may sound like a stupid question..but I have a stock 62-67 tank that I need to cut the original filler neck off of and weld it in the back-center of the tank like the one pictured in one of the first posts of this thread..the tank hasn't had gas in it for years so I'm not worried about it exploding when I weld the new neck to it but why would I need to fill it with water while welding it? thanks

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 3:38 pm

I would fill it with water but keep the water lever below the area you are going to weld. Wave the torch over opening in the tank just to burn off any excess vapor if any. Then weld away.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 4:20 pm

Oh I see gotcha thx man

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 6:27 pm

Do it like Jerry said. Even if it hasn't had gas in it for years, when you start heating the metal, resin or other residue still in the tank will release fumes that can accumulate and can become an explosive mixture. The water will keep everything cool and reduce the volume in the tank.

bountyhunterdm · Post by **bountyhunterdm** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 4:28 am

While we are on the subject, I noticed that the angle at which my tank is installed, is down hill torwards the front. The outlet is pretty far torwards the firewall. It looks like the gas at the forward part of the tank has no chance to ever move up stream to the outlet. Does any one know if this is just the way it works or does the tank fit flatter in an orginal bug?

michael cook · Post by **michael cook** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 4:45 am

relocat the outlet that is what I did

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 5:04 am

[QUOTE="bountyhunterdm"]does the tank fit flatter in an orginal bug?[/QUOTE] Yes in a bug the tank sits flat and in a Manx the tank is tilted forward. That's one reason you need to relocate the filler from the front to the back, so you gain a gallon of capacity. However, even though the outlet valve isn't on the very bottom of the tank, there is just about a cup that you can't get out. Even in a bug there is still a few ounces left.