Subaru powered Manxters

Tom-Kathleen · Post by **Tom-Kathleen** » Mon Dec 26, 2005 2:18 pm

No. The Manxter has a "lower dash tub" that seals that area off. Although, some of the heat could come through the area where the gauges and glove box are. But, knowing Olli, he has a plan for that. When Bruce made the street Manxter with the Subi motor, he put the radiators in the sidepods, near the back of the car. They require electric fans to work, no real airflow availble. Tom

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Thu Dec 29, 2005 6:21 pm

Olli, After reading all the posts on this thread and checking out the links, I'm convinced. I'm selling my GTi eng and going 2.5 subbie. Thought you might appreciate that. Isn't it fun being a bad influence? LOL Kev #893

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:56 am

Very cool Kev... Post details and pics. Olli

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:05 am

The trigger has been pulled. Placed my order with Steve Johnson for a 2.5L turbo. 4-6 weeks....pictures will follow when I the engine arrives. Olli

shaihulud · Post by **shaihulud** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:13 pm

Hello Olli. I am in the process of fitting a 2 litre, SOHC, non-turbo Subaru engine to my Meyers Manx SR. I chose that engine because the price was right and to keep it as light as possible on a short wheelbased rear engined car. Because the pan is shortened, the Australian Design Rules (ADRs) cause the car to be classified as an Individually Constructed Vehicle (ICV), which means that it is considered to be a new car. I have to have as many of the new things that modern cars must have except air bags, crumple zones and ABS brakes, because they cannot be retro-fitted to old cars. Therefore, I must fit a modern, fuel injected, computer controlled, unleaded fuel, engine with all of the latest emission controls, etc., etc.. At first I resented not being able to build the only SR in Australia as a 1970s classic with a Beetle engine. Now I am looking forward to having a very, quiet, civilised and fast little car. I intend to fit twin radiators with suitable ducting and electric fans each side of the engine, as fitting them into the small space in the front would be a plumbing nightmare. Do you think that, given that the aerodynamics of an SR got sufficient air into the engine bay to cool a Beetle or even in some cases a Corvair engine, that there would be sufficient airflow to the radiators without needing airscooops, which would ruin the look of the car? Richard.

Tom-Kathleen · Post by **Tom-Kathleen** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 2:37 pm

I think it is time I posted some of the pictures of how Bruce thinks a Subi powered Manxter should be. I saw this car after Lone Pine in October. He was building 2 of these. The red one was almost done & the purple one in the background was about 1/2 done. The radiators were in the side pods with electric fans to move the air. We drove the red one, very smooth & FAST! Enjoy. Tom

shaihulud · Post by **shaihulud** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 4:07 pm

Tom. Thank you for the pictures of Bruce's Manxters. The radiators are not easily discernable and the airscoops look good on a Manxter. I am thinking that I will fit excessive radiator capacity and hope for the best. I certainly don't want to put ducts in the rear of the SR's body. A possible solution to inadequate cooling on hot days would be to lift the front of the engine cover to act as an airscoop. I'll consider doing that when the time comes. One of the problems with fitting a radiator in the front of the SR is that there is no forward weight transfer benefit because the battery, tools, jack and lug wrench which would normally be in the front would, because there is nowhere else to put them, then have to be fitted into the engine area, so it's a swings and roundabouts situation. Richard.

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:27 pm

The engine is here! 2.5L STi short block with 2.0L WRX JDM heads and cams. 250-260 HP. Olli

Tom-Kathleen · Post by **Tom-Kathleen** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:36 pm

Looking good! Bruce (Meyers) was thinking of turning the intake manifold 180 degrees (air entering from the rear of the car) which would move the turbo to the left & relocate the alt. All of this was to avoid the bump in the back seat area. He had made a custom piece for that. This is going to be a great looking (and performing) car! Tom

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 12:19 am

Hi Tom, I won't have an issue (he says hoping) with the J tube clearing the firewall,as I had to provide room there when I was fitting the Ford. I am still waiting on a set of the new side pods. 5 months now.....

. I call Winnie once a month to remind them. I will be seeing Bruce this weekend at Knott's and I am anxious to see a Subaru Manxter ( ManxterRX) in person. Olli

CoKev · Post by **CoKev** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:54 pm

Dang Olli, that looks sweet! I have picked up my 2.5 eng but have gotten any farther. I think mine will end up in a Baja. Momma likes windows and I wouldn't mind heat for the less temperate days. Guess I'm not as tough as T&K, but they don't drive in Wyoming either

Keep the inspirational pics coming!

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Tue May 02, 2006 6:08 pm

I am now back from California. Knott's was cool,it was nice meeting some of the Club members. I was able to take a little bit of time and make a side trip out to Valley Center and visit with Bruce, Winnie and John. John took me for a ride in the red Subaru powered Manxter. One word, wow! Excellent seamless power with outstanding low speed drivability. I can't wait to get mine finished now! Olli

gary dam · Post by **gary dam** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 6:14 pm

Olli, Could you please check your PM. I have a ? for you. Thanks Gary

Olli · Post by **Olli** » Sat Jul 08, 2006 2:52 am

Just an FYI... The rear bumber cage trombones will not clear the Subaru engine without some modifications. The clearance issue can be handled in one of two ways. 1. get the lower tube bent into an "S" and use the original lower stub mounts (have fun in determing exactly how much of an "S" that you would need and good luck in finding a shop that will work with you) or....2. make a new lower stub mount. That is what I did. Pictures to follow....Give me a chance to take some, upload to Photobucket, etc..... I will say one thing, the red Manxter has the lower trombone tube running directly below the oil filter. I didn't like that. Can the filter actually be removed with the trombone in place??? It didn't look like it could... I was able to get the lower tubes to run slightly further outboard directly below the headers giving me complete access to the oil filter. Olli

ROSSDC · Post by **ROSSDC** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:22 am

[font=Times New Roman]I purchased a Subaru 2.2L SOHC engine, wire harness and everything else needed to make it run. It is a non-turbo engine with 135hp and 143ftlbs of torque. To keep things simple I plan to install the radiator in the stock location to the engine putting it in the rear. The attached pictures are of a CAD model created in Solid Works. Any suggestion appreciated. [font=Times New Roman]More info at: [font=Times New Roman]http://www.specificdesign.com/dune_buggy_subaru.htm

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