It's lookin good! You might try joining the ends with a biscuit and a good epoxy resin. That might also work over the tunnel. This is a biscuit, for those of you that don't know.
[QUOTE="dunebuggyarchives"]Once you have that protoype finished you are planning on making this new composite lift kit available for sale right? John[/QUOTE] Yes, As soon as I can find some $0.50 per hour workers. This is taking for ever.
Rear View, How much do you think the engine and tranny will bring it down? Some angle, I hope it's not really bent like that. Probably would have caught that before now.
I have my engine out right now and my rear end is probably up 4" to 5"s. Looks like you may have an un-balanced springplate issue? either that or the camera angle.
[QUOTE="dpgregitis"]I have my engine out right now and my rear end is probably up 4" to 5"s. Looks like you may have an un-balanced springplate issue? either that or the camera angle.[/QUOTE] Definitely the camera angle. I hope the engine brings it down a couple inches or so.
Chuck, You can probably glue a stack of the material together and cut the front and rear "over the tunnel" pieces out of them. I can't believe how nicely it seems to machine. Keep up the good work!
[QUOTE="Reverb"]How are you going to fill in that gap at the front and rear hump ?[/QUOTE] Duck Tape Not sure yet. The main problem is that the Manx and the Berrien floor pan appear to be different lengths. Jerry, Good idea with the thin strips. I have had a 1" x 1" strip between two saw horses with a piece of rail road iron hanging from it for a couple days. It bent so far then quit. The first try I got a little over zealous and it broke. Thought about heat gun and torch. Hopefully I will get to that bridge tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions and keep them coming.
With the thin strips you might be able to apply a heat gun with your hangine weight and create your own curve. I had modled this same type of lift with 1x1 treated wood once as an experiment. I planned to take 1x4's stood up on edge. I was going to trace the front and rear humps on cardbaord then onto to the 1x4's. It would take two ontop of each other on edge to cover the curve from bottom to top. So the front would have been 4 1x4 pieces cut. With this composite stuff I think that would work. This is pretty interesting to me. I didn't like the idea of buying a stock lift kit and cutting it up. I am cheap. John
Chuck I saw a pic once where a guy took box tubing and cut slits in it about every 1/8 inch and then bent it. Once it is bent you could weld it up and grind it smooth, problem solved. MURZ
Ding Ding Ding we have a winner. John and Jerry. I cut 1/4 strips and they bend ok with a heat gun. 3/8" bends, but not so well wants to crack. Well here I sit all broken hearted want to work but can't get started. Nobody to help lift the body off. Maybe tonight.
Pre Glue. Post glueing. I guess tomorrow will tell, but I think it is going to work real well. Will be sanded and screw heads will be counter sunk after glue dries. Get to start on the rear tomorrow. I think I have it figured out.
Close Up of side where it makes turn inward to front. 
Same piece not installed. 
Probably would have caught that before now. 
Not sure yet. The main problem is that the Manx and the Berrien floor pan appear to be different lengths. Jerry, Good idea with the thin strips. I have had a 1" x 1" strip between two saw horses with a piece of rail road iron hanging from it for a couple days. It bent so far then quit. The first try I got a little over zealous and it broke. Thought about heat gun and torch. Hopefully I will get to that bridge tomorrow. Thanks for the suggestions and keep them coming.
Maybe tonight.
Close up of how they fit. 
Post glueing. I guess tomorrow will tell, but I think it is going to work real well. Will be sanded and screw heads will be counter sunk after glue dries. 
Get to start on the rear tomorrow. I think I have it figured out.