engine issues
That is a big difference. I am pulling the carbs off to check the float measurement and i need to check the fuel pressure too. I am told both of thees item will mess up my power if not correct. If in the end of this I don't have more power i will go on a shooting rampage from the seller. as he told me it was a 2275, and i am no where near 80 in 9 sec. That i know of. It was better today. lower end has a bit more bite. I will send it out to get dyno'ed after i do the carbs and fuel pressure.
I did check the throttle bob it is getting 100% full. my wife helped me. I just pulled and adjusted the floats . they were off by 2.5mm each and i need to fin out the fuel pressure is. I have more power now with the 155 mains ans 200 air c jets but who know what it will be like after i readjust everything to what the people on thesomba tells me. some one named john from aircooledvw is helping me . his website is really good for this,
Are you just trying to find out what speed the front end lifts off the ground? If so, put the money in a good helmet and tac it out in 3rd gear....I have a 560sl with speed rated tires and air bags. It shifts into drive at about 125mph if you hold the throttle down real hard. It started to feel unstable about 130mph so now I don't do that anymore. I would not think someone would live very long going too much past 85mph in a fiberglass car designed for soft terrain. Sounds like it does pretty well 1st to 3rd and ok in 4th...If you drive it hard it won't be long before you need a transaxel or a new motor anyway, fix it when it breaks??Try side stepping the clutch at red line while holding the turning break, that should finish off the spyder gears but leave a rebuildable core...Or if it holds up count how many revolutions you can do before the front wheels touch. ( I think the record is 6 )
No. I just want to know that the engine is at peak performance. Others say the same engine on theirs is much faster. I want to rule out everything before i go after the seller of the engine. 80 is fast enough for me. I like light to light running better than Hwy running. I like in town putting with a romp or two here and there. but I don't see any reason about topping out at 3k in 4th with no power to push past 80. It is a 2275 or not. may be a 1835 and i got took. either way I need to find out.
No, no spacers. about 1/4 gap in tin but no spacers there either. still to fast for a 1600 but who knows maybe a 1835 or 1914 ? I will never know unless I pull it and do a tare down. That is not going to happen. As long as i can smoke the Honda's and other mini cars with wings on them I will be OK. I did get a little more power out of it today after the float and gas pressure adjustment. Any one with experience driving a higher power engine please come take it for a drive. It would have bee OK if this engine was smaller when i bought it but the guy should have told me. unless he didn't know either. I do believe they had a fuel injected turbo on it before I bought it. Oh well i could put it in my 69 bug sitting in storage. it needs an engine. then i can go buy a new 2332 with a turbo fuel injection.
The first thing my mechanic does when I have carb trouble (dual weber 40s an a 1776) is put the air suction gauge (sorry I don't know what it's called) on each of the 4 barrels to see if they are all pulling the same. Have you done this yet?Timing,Points gap,Plugs and Valves should all be checked and set properly BEFORE you attack the carbs. What happened to Dunebuggy Brian? Did he finally realize that we are all CRAZY? I don't see him giving advise here anymore.
-
Complex One
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:00 pm
- Location: Nashville, TN
SeeBee, Not sure if this will help you or not. I had posted this sometime ago when I was having problems with my 2007cc on both Hesitation of light Throttle and also at top end maintaining highway speed. If it is any interest...after what I did in this post I now have a screaming 2007 that acts like a 2275. I have not found any hill in Pennsylvania that I can't go up in forth gear with ease. I must admit that rejetting did a lot for my performance but the MOST Impressive difference was installing the 00 Zero Bypass Valves in the float bowl. If you have not addressed this already I would strongly consider doing so as it made the most difference out of everything that I did. Motor has been running strong and true ever since. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ OK....Redline Weber Re-Jetting Kit #702 IDF-2 Dual Carb. Installation - from Start to Finish only took a little over 1:45hrs. to complete. That's removing air cleaners, Weber 2" Velocity Stacks, Cross-bar Linkage, Tops of both Carbs down to where you need to install the components from this re-jet kit, installation of all components, Reassembly and Carb Re-Sync to Engining running again. I think I held my breath for the better part of this installation. I must admit, I would have never thought that this kit would have made such a performance difference but after driving my Manxter for 15 miles now after re-jet kit completion I am nothing but IMPRESSED! Should have done this some time ago. Installation was not that difficult and I was actually able to install everything without removing either of the Weber carbs from the intake manifolds while the engine was still mounted in the Manxter. Engine Specifications: (2007CC DUAL PORT) CYLINDER HEADS: 044 MAGNUM PLUS cylinder heads with 42 x 34mm S/S valves Dual SUPER REV Springs, Chromoly Retainers and Sure Grip Locks, 42mm Intake, 37mm Exhaust. Racing quality silicone maganese-bronze valve guides & hi-tech valve seats, Performance-prepped three angle valve seat machining. PISTONS & CYLINDERS: FORGED 90.5mm pistons and cylinders Precision matched and balanced. CRANKSHAFT & CONNECTING RODS: 78mm COUNTERWEIGHTED crankshaft precision balanced and micro-polished. Connecting Rods - balanced, rebushed/sized and matched. CAMSHAFT & VALVE TRAIN: #110 High Performance cam, 400 degrees lift / 284 degrees duration and micro-polished. HIGH Performance Chromoly Pushrods, Heat-Treated Rocker Shafts and Rockers. FLYWHEEL: Lightened and Balanced 12lb. 12 Volt 200mm. High Tech silicone flywheel oil seal. Kennedy Clutch 200mm High Performance kit. OIL SYSTEM: Heavy Duty high capacity oil pump, HD oil pressure relief valve, Finned aluminum valve covers. CARBS: Weber 40 IDF with Cross-bar linkage. IGNITION: PERTRONICS CNC machined FLAMETHROWER-II distributer with GM style distributor cap and internal electronic module, FLAMETHROWER-II High Output Coil, Pertronics 8.5mm plug wires. EXHAUST: Meyers Sidewinder Exhaust (Hot-jet coating) In tearing down the Weber 40 IDF carbs that originally came installed on the 2007cc engine, and which I have been having this "Hesitation on Light Throttle", I found that they must have just installed an "Out of the Box" set of carbs as the internal components were all stock sizes and as follows: Original Idle Jets: .50 NOW -- .55 Original Pump Jets: .50 NOW --.55 Original Fuel Exhaust/Bypass Valves: .55 NOW -- 00 ZERO Bypass All other internal jets, venturi's, and valves are still stock sizes. These 00 Zero Bypass Valves, in the Redline Weber kit, keep the fuel, that is normally being partially shunted back to the pump, and applies all of it to the carb. I believe that this was the biggest difference in getting rid of the hesitation on light throttle. I must also admit that even changing out the Idle Jets themselves from .50 to .55 made a considerable difference as well once I got the Air/Mix screws adjusted correctly. These Idle Jets were what I did first a couple of days ago just to see what they did in performance. Not bad results but still a very slight hesitation and still wanted to increase carb performance a little further. There is definately a LARGE improvement with everything from the kit installed now. Certainly worth ever penny for this kit. This 702 IDF-2 kit also comes with .60, .65, and .70 Idle Jets so I can still experement a little more with these if necessary and they do not require having to dismantle the carbs again to change out and install different sizes for further testing. Right now---my engine is running better than it has since the beginning and I'm going to stop for now and evaluate a little more before doing anything else.
[QUOTE="fubar"]Are you just trying to find out what speed the front end lifts off the ground? If so, put the money in a good helmet and tac it out in 3rd gear....I have a 560sl with speed rated tires and air bags. It shifts into drive at about 125mph if you hold the throttle down real hard. It started to feel unstable about 130mph so now I don't do that anymore. I would not think someone would live very long going too much past 85mph in a fiberglass car designed for soft terrain. Sounds like it does pretty well 1st to 3rd and ok in 4th...If you drive it hard it won't be long before you need a transaxel or a new motor anyway, fix it when it breaks??Try side stepping the clutch at red line while holding the turning break, that should finish off the spyder gears but leave a rebuildable core...Or if it holds up count how many revolutions you can do before the front wheels touch. ( I think the record is 6 )[/QUOTE] My Manx has seen 114 mph at the end of the 1/4 mile and it still felt very stable, although I wouldn't want to try turning at that speed 
Well after adjusting a bunch of things . I have more get up and go but not for 4th gear. took it down to a builder he looked at it said it has a freeway flyer gear , 4:12 ring and pinion and with my tall tires it will not work. sounds like a good reason to me. i will sell my new trans and go buy another one. any one need a pro street trans with 250 miles
[QUOTE="seabeeBuggy"]Well after adjusting a bunch of things . I have more get up and go but not for 4th gear. took it down to a builder he looked at it said it has a freeway flyer gear , 4:12 ring and pinion and with my tall tires it will not work. sounds like a good reason to me. i will sell my new trans and go buy another one. any one need a pro street trans with 250 miles[/QUOTE] Why not just change the ring and pinion in the box you have?? At least then you know what you have!!
I have had good experiences with Rancho in Anaheim, CA. Not the cheapest place around, but you pay for quality and experience. One word of advice - do your homework and get ALL the gears you want at the same time. Swapping gears later on costs you more in labor than if they do it all at once. I just got my trans back on Wednesday. I had them change third and fourth gear, because changing the ring and pinion wasn't enough. I will post a report of the results once I get the car back together. Any good transmission shop should be able to help you figure out which ratios you need. There are also a number of online calculators to help you see what speed you will have at each RPM. Here's one: http://www.et-studios.com/motorsports/gears/gears.html I suggest doing some calculations before talking to the transmission shop. That way you will both be speaking the same language. Could you fit a Bus transmission in your buggy? That would be a good alternative, and it is stronger than a Bug one (provided your suspension is IRS). Those lower Bus gears might be just what you need!