Drilled Drums

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 3:54 pm

I'm trying to decide if I should replace my wheel adaptors with drilled drums. I've been reading the pros and cons of each. I thought about something the other day that I wanted to ask those that are using the drilled drums. I use the TORQUE TOOL FLYWHEEL & DRUM PLATE KIT (http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7036) for removing the axle nut on my rear drums. Since my drums are stock 5 luggers, there is no problem using this tool. If I replace those drums with a Chevy or Ford pattern drilled drum, I don't think this tool will work any more. Is that correct? If so, what are youz guyz (with the drilled drums) using to loosen the 36mm axle nut? Thanks, Bud

5150bossman · Post by **5150bossman** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 6:34 pm

You are correct in thinking that the torque tool will not work. It is designed for the VW wide-5 or VW 4-bolt patterns only. Not sure what to use if you are running a different bolt pattern. You might try using an adapter, but backward to fit the torque tool. :2cents:

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 7:47 pm

I use a 1/2" air impact to loosen and tighten the axle nut. Some say that the nut should not be tightened with an impact but i have been doing it since 1975 and have never had a problem.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 8:37 pm

MAN! What kind of impact wrench do you have that goes to 230 ft. lbs.s?? I wish I had one, mine only goes to around 115 ft. lb.s Or is it the compressor doing the work?? Jimbo

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Sat Nov 05, 2005 9:02 pm

If you run paddle tires you might consider a wide 5 rim without the adapter. Dragging a buggy through the sand with a missing rear wheel uses a lot of your friends clutch. Having a spare plate and lugnuts along is helpful too. And locktite on the drivers side.

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 2:34 am

Thanks for confirming what I thought. I'm going to have to re-think the drilled drums now. I don't have an extensive tool collection, so the impact wrench thing isn't an option. From what I remember hearing, the torque tool is near impossible to drill (to modify). I think the only other option might be that long lever bar thingie that is pictured in the Bently book for removing the nut. I've never seen one, so I'm not sure where I'd get it. Thanks.

Ehamiltn · Post by **Ehamiltn** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 3:17 am

[QUOTE="madmanx"]I'm trying to decide if I should replace my wheel adaptors with drilled drums. I've been reading the pros and cons of each. I thought about something the other day that I wanted to ask those that are using the drilled drums. I use the TORQUE TOOL FLYWHEEL & DRUM PLATE KIT (http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7036) for removing the axle nut on my rear drums. Since my drums are stock 5 luggers, there is no problem using this tool. If I replace those drums with a Chevy or Ford pattern drilled drum, I don't think this tool will work any more. Is that correct? If so, what are youz guyz (with the drilled drums) using to loosen the 36mm axle nut? Thanks, Bud[/QUOTE] You can make a pretty simple version of this http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C26%2D000%2D145 with just some flat bar and good size drill bit. Bolt it on with your lug nuts and you're set. Eric Hamilton Fort Wayne, IN

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 3:29 am

Eric, Do you have an example? Pictures? Thanks.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 4:38 am

[QUOTE="lsjimbo"]MAN! What kind of impact wrench do you have that goes to 230 ft. lbs.s?? I wish I had one, mine only goes to around 115 ft. lb.s Or is it the compressor doing the work?? Jimbo[/QUOTE] This is the impact I use. It doesn't have a problem

IR 1/2" Drive Heavy Duty Air Impact Wrench (600 Ft-Lbs Max Torque) Item Number: IR2130

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 5:18 am

Jerry, If I could figure out a way to hook your wrench up to my tranny, I could do away with my 1600cc and solve the gas $$ problem

. I guess I would have to install a really big compressor and tank though

. Bud

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Mon Nov 07, 2005 6:37 pm

That 9;1 ratio torque tool that you can buy, I got one and had to have the lug bolt holes machined out to fit the studs, it's very, very hard metal and a machine shop hit me, for $10 a hole, as it about tore up the guy's milling machine, but it's worth the extra cost to make things much easier. :2cents: Jimbo

flaboyjim · Post by **flaboyjim** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 3:46 am

Is there instructions somewhere on the Web that outlines the proceedure to drill drums for "alternate" lifestyle wheels? I have purchased adapters to Ford, but I am having second thoughts now - I dont want to have to cut them off like others have. Does it take a clean, new, undrilled drum to start, or can you alter a stock wide 5?

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 4:29 am

Jim, If I go the drilled drum route, I was going to contact SoCal Imports (there's been many threads about them selling drilled drums - do a search on "drilled drums"). I have no idea of the cost. I haven't gotten that far yet. Bud

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 7:29 pm

So. Cal Imports gets $49.95 & up per drum. you can get their websditw @ http://WWW.SOCALAUTOPARTS.COM. :2cents: Jimbo

Complex One · Post by **Complex One** » Wed Nov 09, 2005 6:11 am

I have Chevy 4.75 drilled drums all the way around on my Manxter 2+2 at the moment which were drilled by SoCal. So far I have been very happy with the drums. The stub alighnment was perfect and well balanced. Not so much as a vibration from them on my buggy even with 6" front and 10" rear tires mounted. The drums that they use are essentially stock (blank) VW drums front and rear. Then they drill for what ever bolt pattern you want or need. Fitment was perfect on my 1973 Type-1 chassi. The best thing about drilled drums or rotors is that it keeps the wheel stanse (width) closer in than when you use wheel adapters. A lot of states will flag you on inspection and or vehicle registration/certification if your wheels stick out past the fenders too far. Even with 10" tires on the rear with the drilled Chevy 5 bolt pattern my tires still sit nicely under the majority of the Manxter 2+2 body fenders and still have good clearance on the inside as well. As for the 36mm Glad Nut Removal tool I have this product from cip1.com http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... C10%2D7040 Has worked for me and is not that expensive. $8.98ea. plus ship Just my :2cents: worth

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