Buggy Accesory Store

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 11:37 am

Hi, Im looking for a store in the US that has a large/huge selection of headlights tail lights and mirrors. Im building a beach buggy out of a 70' pan and need to have these before I can move on. Im also looking for info on how to rig hinges from the front beam bolts to the hood's front lip....want to open the hood forward wingshield and all....any suggestions?

UncleBob · Post by **UncleBob** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 12:17 pm

Open up your HOT VW's to find a decent assortment of lights for your buggy. About your 'flip up' hood. This would require a BUNCH of work to be feasable. Things to consider: 1. Hood would hit lights mounted on fender, unless small diameter lights are used. 2. How do you keep the hood down? Squeak City. 3. Steering column through the dash and steering column support bar. Support bar is mounted through body. Without support bar, dash/steering column/windshield will be unstable. 4. Wiring harness/gauges/electrical. 5. Fabrication or purchase of fiberglass tilt one-piece front end bracket designed for beetle. And, after all that work, what's the point? Your body and fuel tank are still there covering up the easy to get to front end... ?

allen pierce · Post by **allen pierce** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 1:00 pm

For wahtever reason you want an opening hood, here are some possibilities (none hinge from the front), that still require a lot of work... These would avoid most of the previously mentioned problems (except #5) and require some sort of 'Lip' fabrication for a nice fit and latch or hood pins or something to keep it closed.

This orange one is, I think, from Europe and looks to have the headlights mounted on the hood. I believe I read that the hinge and fiberglass work was done by the owner, pretty nice 'Lip' work.

Like I said, lots of work to make it "right", not sure what benefit you're looking for... please enlighten us on "why" you want to do this (you might have an original idea that's neat!). Are you moving the gas tank to the rear for storage under the hood? Remember, you can do anything you want, it's your buggy! It just takes some combination of time, skill & $$$.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 1:34 pm

The idea was so I wouldnt have a fuel fill cap sticking out the hood. Gas tank would be under the hood in front. Besides it will look cool to raise the hood with an elec. actuator at the gas station. Headlights...some sort of flush mount on the fenders that fits and doesnt take too much space in the wheel well. Steering column will be held from a bent tube rissing from the side rail of driver floor pan and bending to reach the center line of the steering shaft. Extended wires thats it! Sound simple except for the hinges. Where would I find these hinges?

MickeyUSA · Post by **MickeyUSA** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:13 pm

Do a google search for "streetrod hinges" or get a copy of Street Rodder, a large asortment of hidden and classical hinges to choose from.

UncleBob · Post by **UncleBob** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 2:37 pm

It sounds a lot easier than it is. But, if I was so inclined, I'd prolly start with a bracket designed for a flip-up fiberglass VW front end. Like this: http://thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/153894.jpg Or even a baja bumper with the integrated flip-up, like the one pictured here: http://www.dansperformanceparts.com/bug ... rglass.htm Even if you started with one of those pieces, you'll still need to change it to work on your hood, and also reinforce the fiberglass wherever you attach it. P.S. You're wierd.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 3:07 pm

You might want to consider a removable hood.

I actually think the hood being bolted/riveted, etc. adds alot of structural rigidity to the front end of the buggy. I think you will see alot more cowl shake and rattles in the body if it's not bolted between the 2 fenders.

allen pierce · Post by **allen pierce** » Wed Nov 16, 2005 10:39 pm

You can also try marine or boat shops in your area for hinges, they use them on deck hatches/ports, etc. P.S., you're NOT wierd. Still... lots of good ideas are on this thread for you to consider, keep thinking...

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 1:05 am

If your interested in a removable hood, I'll send you some pictures of how mine are done. No rattles thanks to some cross members. As for the gas cap not sticking out of the hood, I have a fake hood scoop, I'm going to hinge that and hide the cap under it. No clue how to pull off a front-hinged hood. Sounds like a ton of obstacles, but it could be interesting to see if you can make it work.

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 1:23 am

Mirrors and some other items can be found at: http://www.bandkmfg.com/

jr_vw2 · Post by **jr_vw2** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 1:23 am

You will have to fabricate some sort of frame for the hood. I put a one piece front clip on my 68 beetle and I hinged it to flip forward. I had to build a frame to go under the WHOLE hood to give it the suport I needed. And even after all the work I put into it it was still never just perfect. It always had a squeek or the wind would tweek it a little and I would have to readjust the hinges. It was cool no doubt but it was a NIGHTMARE

. How ever much time and effort you are wanting to put into this, take that and multiply it by 6 thenyou might be close to how much of a headache this will be. Good luck...you will need it. Jeremy Chattanooga, TN

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 2:47 am

The orange opening hood shown in the earlier post was made and sold by Bruce Meyers. They were listed in Volumes III and IV (2000 and 2001) of Manx Mania and sold for $275. They were basically the same hood that was used on the monocoque manx's, which hinged open. Take a close look at a picture of Old Red and You'll see.

allen pierce · Post by **allen pierce** » Thu Nov 17, 2005 7:19 pm

Wow, thanks for correcting me on this piece of Manx history. Now I know why the lip fit is so nice. Thanks.