Manx Club

It seems that when I depress my clutch pedal it is not fully disengageing the clutch. Ive tried adjusting the free play, but with no change in performance. When I try to shift to reverse or first I can feel the transmission begin to grind. If I force it then the buggy will launch off, even with the clutch fully pressed. I am wondering if it could be the throwout fork, or the pressure plate responsable. Any tried and true tricks to determine the cause? Its a swingaxle transmission unknown mileage.

Adjust the cable to obtain the least amount of freeplay then the pressure plate/clutch should disengage. If it doesn't, the cable is stretching/slipping possibly at the spot is was shortened, the clutch cable hook on the pedal assy. is ready to break off or the throwout fork is coming apart.

I'm not trying to tell you how to suck eggs here. When adjusting the clutch cable at the gearbox you need to put a vice grip on the lever and turn the lever until it has no free play, but does not move the clutch throwout lever. Then adjust the cable to fit with a tiny amount of looseness. When you release the lever the assembly will then take up any free play in the system, which should be just right. If you did it that way then I have no further suggestions beyond remove the engine to check the clutch.

It might be that your clutch cable guide tube has broken free of its welds at the rear of the floorpan or possibly the weld inside the tunnel just behind the pedals. The tube must be firmy anchored for the cable to work. I'm talking about the solid steel tube that runs through the pan, not the flexible pre-load tube that goes from the end of the solid tube to the bracket on the transmission. To see if its still solidly attached, remove the shifter access cover find the clutch tube, depress the clutch pedal and see if its flexing around.

I had the same problem. I just installed my re-built tranny and was ready for a test drive, but first I checked the shifting before I started it up, it shifted good in all gears, I then ran down the street and went through the gears with no problem, then went down a hill and it locked up in 3rd gear. I finally babyed it home and checked out everything, it all looked good, but I still retightened the set screw in the coupler, that seemed to help. In the garage it worked o.k. but when I put in 3rd, the buggy rolled. AH HA, tightened up the clutch cable about 6 turns or so, got the clutch in proper adjustment and free and it all now works great. It is real hard to determine clutch play and you just have to trial error to get it where it will shift right. My tranny builder will be glad to hear I solved my problem. :2cents: Jimbo

Thanks for the ideas. I guess instead of wakeing up early to look under the tree, I'll be looking under the buggy.

I may be barking up the wrong tree, but, good quality parts make a huge difference. Go with a stock Borg Warner and make sure you are getting enough travel out of your pedal if it is hydarlic or cable...I had a similar problem that was fixed with a new slave . If you are not racing, a stock clutch will save loads of money in broken axels , cv's ,etc.

Its all stock/non-performance parts. It has a new clutch disk, but I kept the old pressure plate. Its cable operated. Could the shift rod also contribute if you cant fully put it into gear. The reason i ask is i have seen those adjustable ends for the shift rod. I just got the body off to make it easier to get to everything and to inspect the cable operation.

Well I tighentend up the cluch cable. It helped but the transmission still grinds. I guess the next thing I have to replace is the throwout fork.

If the part looks questionable change it does not make sence to put it all back together just to take it apart again. Do it once.

Put the buggy in first gear have someone hold the clutch pedal down. Then try to push the buggy, it should roll easily with no resistance. If there is resistance, the clutch is not disengaging and could possibly be rectified by tightning the clutch cable a bit more. If there is no resistance, the clutch is disengaging and the problem is in the trans itself.

I tried the put it in first and push the cluch and see if the buggy moves trick. It didn't so i tighened up the clutch cable again and tried it a second time. This time it worked. Excited i hop in the buggy fire it up and press down on the clutch pedal. Next thing i hear is a snap and a rattle so I turn the key off. I first thought I broke the clutch cable, but it is still connected. The cluch pedal is about as loose as when I first started and thought it was the right tension. Thinking I broke the cross shaft/throwout fork i take off the engine. I find that the pressure plate and the cross shaft will now need to be replaced. I will upload some pictures tomorrow. I always seemed to break my toys on christmas when I was younger, guess its not any different today. I guess I should have been a little more delicate and a little less excited. Anybody have any replacement pressure plate recomendations?

Everytime I get into a clutch I try to get the best, because I am lazy and only like doing things once. I have had good luck with Borg Warner , and Sacs? Whenever I tried the trick pressure plates they failed or caused something else to. My friends run the puck clutches with 2-3,000lb pressure plates and they seem to break a lot of transaxles. If you are leaving the cable in, your left knee would be happier with a stock plate too.

Before you yank the engine out, check your clutch cable. It may have slipped at the point it was shortened at of it may be failing, typically the cables don't snap in two usually a few strands break at a time and the cable gets longer and loses it's adjustment.

I have been using a Kennedy Stage I pressure plate ( 1700#+)and it hasn't failed yet. I even survived the Thrill Seekers Run @ Lone Pine, which it got up the badest climb. Also, use a German throw out bearing. Ther'e available through Pacific customs in Hot VW. :2cents: Jimbo