Breather Box

Siggymanx33 · Post by **Siggymanx33** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 9:19 pm

Ok, slight obstacle on the CB breather box that I purchased and I need a little advice. What type of breather box are most people using? I purchased the CB box because I like the clean way it installs and also allows for easier addition of oil. Unfortunately the oil fill cap interferes with the back of my body. Should I just vent to a regulat bugpack breather box? where would be a good place to mount it? I have a picture but the board isn't taking it? Any other ideas on succesful breather alternatives?

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 12:31 am

Clyde Berg is selling a welded aluminum/baffled breather box that can mount on the back of the rear seat area and fit behind the engine. He advertises them on The Samba. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=236981

I was thinking of using one along with the CB Breather on my Manx.

Tom-Kathleen · Post by **Tom-Kathleen** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 12:48 am

Dave - I have a CB Performance breather on my Fiber Fab, so I am familiar with them. How much interferance do you have with the oil cap to the body? Can it be cut down by removing some of the finger grips? Can it be moved to the passenger side of the box instead of the rear face? It is only made out of aluminum, so it can be changed very easily. Mine has been welded onto the alternator stand, had the cover welded on and the extra holes filled. I also removed the ribs to clean up the look. Let me know if I can help. Tom

Siggymanx33 · Post by **Siggymanx33** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 2:38 am

Thanks for the responses. Tom, I have been waiting for my issue and I can't wait to see you and your wifes cars. Since pictures will not post, I will try a link. http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f291/ ... eather.jpg It could be made to work, however sine I don't weld I would be trusting the work to someone that is unfamiliar. I chose it for it's simplicity and clean look. If I try to change it around, (which my mechanic offered to do) I would hate to see it look anything but great. I also worry that by the time we are done, it could be espensive to get creative. I know there are other ways, just looking for the right one. Thanks,

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 3:18 am

I can't believe the breather interferes with the body. I have a ton of room around mine on an old original Manx.

Tom-Kathleen · Post by **Tom-Kathleen** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 3:33 am

OK the picture helps a lot. Is the body hitting on the flat part of the cap, or the raised area for getting leverage to open & close it? It looks like you could taper the raised area in and maybe have clearance? Even then, it may be hard to get the cap off because it goes up at an angle. If you welded the whole cover on the front like I did, you could lower it and get clearance. I have a local guy who is a aircraft quality welder. I am in the Aerospace business. so I get to meet all kinds of excelent fabricators. Once again, if you want some help, let me know. Tom

Siggymanx33 · Post by **Siggymanx33** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 3:39 am

Jerry, I thought the same thing, I looked at the picture that you had posted in a previous thread and noticed the difference. Siggy body or Berrien chassis or the new body? Tom, the buggy is not in my possesion right now so I can't really answer your questions. I should have a good look at it tomorrow. Thanks for your offer.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 12:31 pm

My orange Manx is a Manx 1 on a 65 Bug chassis. I guess I'm going to have to move a little further in mocking my Siggy up to see if I have clearence issues too. I can't believe the Berrien chassis would be the difference. Stranger things have happend.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 12:37 pm

I was looking at more pics of my buggy and it looks like your engine is higher up in the body then mine. I wonder?

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Sat Mar 04, 2006 4:56 pm

My Siggy Manx sits lower in the back, just like Dave's. The license plate would hit the alternator pulley if I didn't bend the bracket out away from it. My pan is a '72.

dpauli · Post by **dpauli** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 8:20 pm

My Siggy Manx also sits lower in the back. It is on a Berrien frame. Like Lee?s my license plate would hit the alternator pulley if left un-tweaked. I have a piece of stainless steel behind the license plate like the original Manx?s had and had to cut a lot away to clear the alternator.

Siggymanx33 · Post by **Siggymanx33** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 9:55 pm

Alright, I believe I am going to be going with the Clyde Berg box. Next question involves AN fittings and the valve covers. I realize the best way to go about this would be to have the AN 8 bungs welded into the valve covers however I may not be holding onto my current covers too long. What is the best way to add a fitting to the valve cover without welding? Also I am running the valve cover hoses to the box and another hose to drain, can I just drain to the existing hole in my aftermarket oil fill or should I go to the fuel pump block off plate? Is there one place or anther that is better to mount the breather box on the back of my rear seat or where ever accessible? Left right or center?

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 12:23 am

You can drill and tap aluminum valve covers that will allow you to screw in the AN fittings. I plan on mounting mine, up as high as possible and centered on the back seat. High so you can't see it and centered to keep it symmetrical. If the breather box is above the vent tube on the oil fill you can drain it thru it. :2cents:

Siggymanx33 · Post by **Siggymanx33** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 2:02 am

I am presently using the fairly thin Scat covers. I was thinking of drilling for the An fitting and using a AN firewall nut? perhaps with a brass washer or rubber o ring?