Does This Worry anyone???

tpinthepack · Post by **tpinthepack** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 12:51 am

From the inside of the hood, look at where the hood meets the body? Should it fit better than this? My NOS manx came with a used hood. I am wondering if I should keep this one, or buy a new one from the manx club? Also, My shock towers in the front are touching the body. I am going to install caster shims under the lower torsion tube, and that will rotate the beam in good direction to avoid this. Should I consider grinding the shock towers a little? Thanks for the advise.

CairoManx · Post by **CairoManx** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:29 am

[QUOTE="tpinthepack"]My shock towers in the front are touching the body. I am going to install caster shims under the lower torsion tube, and that will rotate the beam in good direction to avoid this. Should I consider grinding the shock towers a little? Thanks for the advise.[/QUOTE] Do you have a body gasket in place? It should add another quarter inch of clearance. Is the body as far forward on the pan as it should be?

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 3:52 am

Double check the clearence between the hood and the front of the fuel tank. Sometimes the hood won't sit all the way down in place because it hits the tank.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 4:51 am

I ground the weld seam down on the top of my towers for this same reason. It seems to be fine.

joemama · Post by **joemama** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 6:51 pm

on my clone, I had the same hood fit problems, so I added fiberglass matting to that area, to make the lip larger, pretty easy to do, and as it is not visible, it does not have to be perfect. Depending on your intended use for the buggy, I would think twice before grinding down the welds on the shock towers, if used offroad, you would want to reinforce the shock tower welds, not weaken them. Remember that the shock towers and the body move together, so once you have somehow come up with the necessary clearance, it should not change. A thick body to pan gasket, small body lift, spacers between body and pan made out of synthetic wood, these are all solutions I have seen on this forum. Good luck.

tpinthepack · Post by **tpinthepack** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 1:54 am

I don't have the gasket on yet, and the caster shim will help. My main concern with the hood inside, is how wavy the edge is. I would prefer the hood to match the lines of the body a little more even. Does anyone have a picture like this of their hoods? Maybe any experience with a new manx hood from the manx club. I have a hole to fill if I keep this hood, so a new one may be the way to go. Thanks again.

Siggymanx33 · Post by **Siggymanx33** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 2:10 am

Tony, If it is any consolation, my hood for my siggy did not fit the channel perfectly either. (It was a replacement hood that was made after the body due to the original being damaged) Not sure if they are all like that.... It appears as if the predrilled holes have plenty of grab compared to the end of the hood. How do those holes line up with the outside of the body? There should be a slight channel on the outside of the tub to run your rivets or drywall screws? Would the holes line up with the channel? I would be more concerned how the hood looks from the top...How is the gap on the seam? Are you using welting? How is the gap at the hood, body and where the winshield would intersect? Does it grap at the preverbialy crook at the front of the hood? I also wouldn't assume a new hood will fit perfectly as the instructions for the siggy say that the edge could be off in places up to 1/4"

tpinthepack · Post by **tpinthepack** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 11:39 am

The holes don't line up too great. Welt may hide most of it, but I sure would prefer the holes down lower than the seem. The hood actually fits decent. The tank does not interfere, and the dash area seems good. But my dash is trashed, and at the least I need a dash from Manx Club. Good point about the instructions, two parts from two molds, and you are the one who makes them one. Thank You

MickeyUSA · Post by **MickeyUSA** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 4:39 pm

Tony, If it makes you feel better the gap in my hood looks very close to yours (and mine is the correct Manx hood). My hood is hitting the body at each end but I have the same gap in the middle. A pervious owner put the screws so high they show in the gap from the outside. I can cut some off on the dash end to bring the gap down but need to watch what the top looks like. Since I too have to fix my hood, I'm going to look into what "joemama" said about adding to the sides.

Manx Club

Does This Worry anyone???

Does This Worry anyone???

Great Advise, thanks!

Holes