Berrien Buggy ? continued
Berrien Buggy ? continued
Hi Guys, Included are recent build photos to go along with my postings of "Odyssey battery ? Berrien chassis" and "Manx Club Rollbar." The body is a Blue Berrien Nostalgia with optional hardtop, engine is new 1776cc, front disc and rear drum brakes. Photos include: 1) One of four tie down tabs welded to chassis before painting, 2) Brake fluid reservoir, 3) Gauges and CD cover locations (rocker switch has been also mounted for lights). 4) Rolling chassis, 5) Rear cage with welded brackets for license place and Reverse lights, to be powdercoated Black. Since taking these photos, I have made more progress in assembly. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Hello Mike, My goal from the beginning was to keep the overall look relatively traditional, but to also incorporate features and options that were not available years ago. As I discovered early on, ideas have to be modified during assembly, but so far I have not had to deviate too much from my basic, original plans. Here is a partial list of the parts that I am using: Dietz-type stainless steel front headlights, ?67 style VW tail lights Beard seats, retractable seat belts with shoulder straps Wheel hubs machined for 5 lug Chevy pattern (no spacers) Speedliner applied to fiberglass floor pan (similar to Rhino Lining) Wiring harness made from scratch CD player with AM/FM/XM radio, amplifier, front and rear speakers Manx Club stainless steel rollbar, center fill gas tank Custom trailer with electric brakes Attached are a few more build photos. I am trying to photograph as many details of this project as possible, so if anybody wants to see certain steps, just ask. Various photos posted on the Manx Club website have helped me out in a very big way, I hope to return the favor whenever possible.
Quick Question
Gary, I too am working on a barrien chassis... What is the u shaped brace on the tunnel at the rear where the two tubes come out to attach to the torsion tube? I didn't receive such a brace in my bag of supplies. Check out my progress at"http://users.adelphia.net./~jpboyton/"
Hi Jon, When I did a test fit for my seats, I was not happy with the fact that I was going to have to bolt the seat belt connectors to the floor/chassis. They were too short for that and it would have been difficult to dig in between the seats just to buckle the belts. I had that bracket made so that it would (hopefully) follow the curve of the hump in the floor, allowing for total shift rod clearance. I will have a U bracket fabricated (it will bolt through the floor pan) allowing for a much higher seat belt attachment. At least, that?s the plan.
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Air Cleaner Options
Have you seen a early VW bus, Karmann Ghia or Thing air cleaner tube? It has a 90 degree elbow at the carb and relocates the air cleaner to the side? Just a thought before you cut the body.
If you are thinking of cutting the body for air cleaner clearence, don't do it. Especially for a progressive carb, because you will not be happy with the performance of the progressive "POS". Dual Kadron carbs fit under the Nostalgia body just fine and will out perform the progressive carb. Here is a picture of a friend's Nostalgia with the Kadrons.
Hi Jerry, Thanks for the input, but the progressive carb is already installed on the engine, and the trimming that I am talking about only requires me to remove about 2 inches of fiberglass. The engine came with the progressive carb, and I have read both positive and negative views of both the progressive and dual carbs, so I think I am going to stick with what I have for now (besides, it's paid for). I will still have 1-1/2" of material below the bumpout in the fiberglass, so even if there is a carb change later on, the body won't look modified for something that is not there.
I run the 32/36 progressive Weber on my buggies and in my Land Abuser. The only trouble I have had is keeping the sand out with the stock rectangular aircleaner. I made a plenum out of stainless steel for the sand car and used a store bought one and a Bug Pac aircleaner on the street buggy. The air cleaner was poorly made, but the plenum/adapter worked well. I don't know if it would clear the glass in this case but it would require a lot less trimming. http://www.jimscustomvw.com/progairclean.html http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vi...FSK0054&cartid=
Hi Jerry, I bought my engine from JustVeeDubs in Arizona (I do NOT recommend this company to anyone, they were extremely slow on delivery). A guy that lives here in the area bought this same engine from them for his dune buggy just about a year before I started my build process, and he has been basically satisfied with the results. Don't get me wrong, I do not have enough experience in these setups to speak as an expert either way (progressive vs dual carburetors), if I am not happy with the carb, I will not hesitate to replace it.
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Hi Dave, Since I don?t have a garage, I decided to have a custom trailer designed early-on to help with transport between my storage-unit-converted-into-a-shop to various places for chassis painting, welding, etc. The actual bed dimensions are 11? x 6? 6", with a 3500 lb single axle and electric brakes. A trailer fabricator in Clinton, NC charged me $1541.50 before tax and tags. I added a hand winch myself. The photo shows the front tires making contact with the front lip. There is actually plenty of room towards the back but since I have not checked where the dune buggy?s weight centers out at from front to rear, I wanted to make sure that I had as much tongue weight as possible. It very well may be that the best balancing in the future will be obtained if it faces the rear during transport.