Oil filter

manxfwin · Post by **manxfwin** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:30 am

Is anyone using the spin-on filter/oil pump unit on their buggies?Any pro's or con's and will it fit with the Manx sidewider exhaust.Thanks for any info.

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:26 am

I read a few articles in the past that the filter/pumps do not fit into the case properly, and it has been recommended not to use them. A better choice is the remote filter setup with a Gene Berg relief type pump cover. I run a stock engine (i.e. not big bucks), so I don't run an oil filter. I just change the oil a lot. I'm sure others will post their experiences.

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 10:41 am

If I had an air cooled engine I would run a remote 1qt filter and straight wt 30. With the WC engine it does not seem to matter. the cooling switches and relays can be a problem. There is an aftermarket oil cooler with a fan on the market that also increases the engine oil capacity for acvw.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:11 pm

As Lee mentioned, Gene Berg's testing came to the conclusion that the passages in the filter/pump combo were too small to flow enough oil in a hipo engine. Bergs findings were before VW incorporated a filter/pump combo from the factory. Granted, the OE VW filter/pump may have the same issues, since it too, was designed for a stock engine. My biggest concern would be the heat from the exhaust causing an increase on oil temps. I can't tell you if it will work with a Sidewinder header, sorry. If you find out be sure to let us know.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:41 pm

Good topic I run a remote Filter and have had some unique experiences The type of filter is important I found. Cold Mornings When we run the desert in the winter months with the cold mornings I blew a few filters when I turned the key from the cool oil temp. I blew about 4 qts out in seconds on the ground. so you can blow a motor quickly especially if you don't have some one that can see it happen because you can't from the drivers seat. A lot of people laughed but the look on there face when then they turned their key was priceless. One morning it happened to 4 buggys. So pack an extra filter/oil, they are hard to find in the middle of nowwhere and doe start your engine slowly and DO NOT high rev it or have your foot on the pedal at all when you turn the key. let the motor warm up before you step on the gas on cool mornings. Type of Filter Having blew a few filter casings it makes you think of the brand of filter. There is not much difference in the outer casings( which is the weak spot) in most even when they say "high performance". I found that the Wix and the K&N brands have the stronger outer casing walls. so you may want to pay a few bucks more. Bypass valve We even put a bypass valve in at the oil pump but at Lone Pine this year it did it again first thing in the morning I ended up putting the reusable "Geers type filter" (but stay away from the imported version from China") with the very thick side walls and I can now just reclean and reuse the same one. Gene C #729

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:28 pm

What brand of filter was comming apart like that? I have never heard of them failing that predictably.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:21 am

Fram HP-1 mostly and a few off brands I just put on. It's happens more than you think Gene C #729

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Mon Nov 19, 2007 5:20 pm

I have heard A LOT of bad things about Fram, not just in ACVW applications. Those who have taken the filters apart say they are unimpressed by the poor quality of the filters. Wix, Purolator, Motorcraft, and Bosch scored higher on the chart. Gene, was the bypass valve you tried a Berg one or a knock off? Also, what weight oil do you use? It's a tough call for the desert, as the mornings are cold like you said, but when we run them hard we don't want oil that's too thin.

dennis-and-cathy · Post by **dennis-and-cathy** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 12:55 am

I have blown three filters on my Manx with a 1776 motor on cold mornings, I run the Berg, relief cover and have since gone to a Geers remote oil filter instead of the spin on type, and have not had any problems since. I run a Manx sidewinder on one of my buggies with the same set-up and no problems, blowing and heating. Hope this helps :help:

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 1:52 am

Years ago someone told me not to use the Fram oil filters on the 20R Toyota because the anti drainback valves did not work that well. The oil filters on those engines are mounted horizontal and if the oil drains back to the pan everytime you start the engine it takes a toll on the cam bearings. They recomended Wix or Hastings.

TMc2548 · Post by **TMc2548** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 4:20 am

I have not tested my filter on the buggy in cold weather but it is a Toyota filter that fits most of their V6 engines. I have only a remote mount and the filter fits great. It supposedly has an internal pressure relief valve and is good for cold temps. It works fine on "regular type" vehicles so I would believe it is OK for buggy use.

Gene-C · Post by **Gene-C** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 4:20 am

Lee, I am running the Berg cover and also run Delo 400 oil. Like I said earlier we had 4 different buggy's blow one on a cool morning. I really attrubute it to the outerlinings of the oil filter itself. I should have it solved between the Geers filter and the bypass valve. But I will carry an extra filter for a little while longer during the winter Gene C #729

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Tue Nov 20, 2007 6:45 am

Sounds good, Gene. Thanks for the info!

jsturtlebuggy · Post by **jsturtlebuggy** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 6:57 am

All VW air-cooled engine really need a full flow oil filter system. In Bill Fisher's book "Hot to HOTROD Volkswagen Engines" he talks about the SAE paper about Ford Motor Company and the study they did on wear in an engine with a oil filter installed. There was 50% less wear in crankshaft, 52% less wear in piston ring wear, 19% less wear in cylinder walls, and 66% less wear in the wrist pins in the pistons. And this is on a street engine. Think about how much wear there could be if using in a dust and dirty conditions. I have used the the Gene Berg pressure relief oil pump cover with sucess on my own engines and cheap filters. I prefer to use a Oberg or System1 filter because they use a stainless steel screen element for filtering. They are not cheap, but the can be cleaned and reused. You can also see if something in happening inside the engine when you take them apart to clean. I am using one of the Shawn Geers reusable filters on one engine that you can take apart and clean. It is working well and is cheaper than a Oberg or System1. It mounts on a standard remote oil filter mount that excepts a Fram PH8A, HP-1, or any other one for the same application. There are some ones coming from China that are copies of the Geers, so beware of them.

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Wed Nov 21, 2007 8:31 pm

The T-4 in my 79 bus has a spin on that has never flown away. Aren't they all pretty much the same thread and gasket surface? Or are there metric and SAE threads?