Manx Club

Getting close to mounting the hood and had wondered how many screws/bolts you guys have used in the ass'y process.It looks like the original instructions call for 3 or 4 screws on each side toward the front and 3 or 4 bolts and nuts each side from the middle of the fender back towards the dash plus the 6 bolts used with the windshield frame.Has anyone tried using just the windshield frame with the 3 bolts per side to secure the hood?I've got a real tight fit and can't see the hood moving if secured in this fashion.Also,do you need to use fender welt between the hood and body?I know this would reduce the chafing,will adding a screw each side toward the front and a bolt/nut toward the back eliminate any rubbing?I like the look without the welt so am trying to look at all of the options.Any ideas or thoughts from those that have been there,done that will be appreciated.Thanks,Dave.

Bruce supplied the new signature Manx's with 3/16" by 7/8" pop rivets, I think 8 or 10 on each side, but 6 or 8 should do. The beading is a real pain to install but it makes a more finished looking job and will keep dirt and grit from getting between the hood and the fenders. The older kits came with fabric beading which was rubbish. Use VW bug fender beading and cut darts and shorten the skirt section so it will make the bend at the front of the fender.

2 bolts on each side for windshield.1 bolt each side as the first connection after the windshield. 8-10 screws each side the length of the fender. 2 bolts in front on the underside. welting all along. you can hold the welting in place with camper tape while putting in the screws. thats how mine is.

If it is an actual Manx, I know that the way it hinges (hypothetically) at the front is pretty sturdy. When I was building mine I actually drove around for a while with no screws down the side and only the winshield mounting holding it on. My hood fit extremely tight in some areas (by the windshield and at front.... so tight that beading was a nightmare) to in the middle I had about 1/4 of a gap in between the hood and the fender. I used two allen head bolts per side for as far as I could reach my arm down the inside of the hood. Then for the remainder, I tried to use the supplied pop rivets but with the gap, I wasn't too succesful. So I pre-drilled and used drywall screws that allowed my to pull the edges of the hood out towards the fender to make a nice seal with the beading. I used three or four per side. I would consider the beading. Even with it, when I wash the car water tends to get between that seal and drain to the floor. Without it, I am sure it would just go right through.