shift rod bushing

gregr · Post by **gregr** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 7:55 pm

any tips for replacing a shift rod bushing? what I've read so far is that they are "patience trying"...... Thanks

90volts · Post by **90volts** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 8:34 pm

i've found this to go by: http://www.glenn-ring.com/tech/bushing_replace.htm

allen pierce · Post by **allen pierce** » Fri Nov 10, 2006 8:47 pm

I had heard the horror stories of doing this operation, but I didn't really have a problem. I have medium size hands and smaller hands would have been even easier. I coated a lot of white lithium grease on it, stuck my finger in the middle and coaxed it into place with the tips of my other fingers. Heard the click when it "got home"! OK, yes, I dropped the bushing a couple of times until I got the hang of how to hold it, however, I'm pretty sure it only took about 2 minutes, at the most. I had previously sanded my shift rod and painted it with "gloss" black, so it was really smooth. I then coated the shift rod all over with the grease (a nice rust inhibitor) and slid the shift rod from the front into the bushing and "viola". It slides and it glides.

shaihulud · Post by **shaihulud** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:31 pm

I recently bought a Baja which has a home made shifter bushing assembly in it. The bushing ring has been damaged and someone tried to weld it to fix it. There is a long galvanised carriage bolt across the tunnel to support it and I have fitted a piece of bent 1/4 inch rod to align it in what's left of the bushing loop. I have a piece of tunnel that was cut from a wreck and I will soon need to cut a piece out of my tunnel to replace the bushing support as sometimes I have great difficulty in getting first or second gear. Compared to fitting a new bushing I have a big fiddly job ahead of me and then when it's all done with a new one welded into place, I'm going to have to fit a new bush. Oh! Woe is me!

Carltons · Post by **Carltons** » Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:17 pm

There was an article in VW Trends about 5 years ago giving graphic details. Thats what drove me to change the one in my bug. It had a nice trick (which I Cant remeber on how to deal with the clip.

joemama · Post by **joemama** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 12:04 am

Although I have not verified this, I was recently told by a vw mechanic,that the bracket that holds the bushing is spot welded in place,and in fact it is what contains the threads that the shifter bolts on to, and that if you can remove the bracket, a new one need not be welded on, as the two bolts that hold the shifter to the tunnel will hold the bracket as well. If this is true, this means that the bushing can be fitted into the bracket outside the tunnel. Again,I have not tried this.

TMc2548 · Post by **TMc2548** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 4:06 am

What you can do when replacing the shift rod guide bracket is drill out the spot welds to remove the old, bolt in the new bracket with the shifter bolts, tack weld the bracket at the drilled out spots. Remove your bolts and you are in business. I used this method when moving the seat belt nuts from the cut out portion of the pan to behind the rear cut. I'm not sure how people are trying to install a new bushing. I replaced mine without trouble. Even the little clip went in fine.

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 4:32 am

Does anyone have a photo of one installed? I bought a new bushing but was not sure which way to put it in as there were no remains of the old one. Not sure if the mount is correct for the bushing I purchased either.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:52 pm

There are several different styles of bushings on the market. Most of them install with the longer part of the bushing pointing to the rear of the car. I don't know why people always complain about having problems replacing the bushings? I have never really had a problem. The shift bushing for my Manx was replaced in the parking lot at Appletree Automotive at Silver Lake in Michigan.

L0084MC · Post by **L0084MC** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 3:20 pm

Get access through the front hole. The spring on the bushing goes to the front of car. After removing the old bushing I put synthetic grease on the bushing, (more slippery than regular grease) rolled it up into itself a little and it slipped right in the hole, opened back up and locked in the groove. I greased the shifting rod with the same grease. I found someone(The wife) with a hand small enough to fit into the access hole in the front of the buggy. we lined up the rod, she put a little pushing pressure on it and it slipped right in. After we had access to the bushing it took about 15 to 20 minutes to replace the bushing and shiftting rod. about an hour start to finish.

markmark · Post by **markmark** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 3:37 pm

I fitted mine when I was shortening the pan. After I had shortened the shift rod I slid the new bushing onto the rod and slid the rod through the front hole. With a bit of a jiggle the bushing was in place. It wasn't too hard doing it this way.

joemama · Post by **joemama** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 12:21 am

I also replaced my without much trouble, I just posted the info about the bracket being held up by the shifter bolts after drilling out the spot welds,because maybe it would help Shaihulud.He may not need to cutout and weeld a section of his tunnel to replace the bracket.

fubar · Post by **fubar** » Sat Apr 07, 2007 1:03 am

I went and bought another bushing today. I told the parts guys I was having problems and had thown the last one in the bushes after getting too upset trying to put it in. Same thing this time. Then I looked on ebay and found one for a bus that looks like it would fit right in.......I told those JO's it was likely a bus part too. I can't wait to get it. I have the shifter tuned in pretty good now, anything better would be a plus.

gregr · Post by **gregr** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:07 pm

well let's see. My first post asking about tips & tricks was posted in early March. I FINALLY got to mess with it last night. Best tip I got for replacing the bushing by myself was to use a wire attached to the end of the shift rod (through the coupler mount hole.) I used some light guy wire I had left for an antenna tower, almost too big but it wasn't going to break on me. After I'd removed the shifter, the coupler and attached the cable, I slid the shift rod forward. I also used a small section of the cable to act as a sling to help support the front ofthe shift rod. Once it was through the hanger, I was able to cuss in the bushing. Actually it wasn't too bad. Then I pulled the shift rod back through (lots of grease.) The whole thing was done in less than an hour. Now on to the carb rebuild....someday

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 9:58 pm

I've got a question regarding the replacement tips and tricks: Is there enough room in the front of the chassis/body to slide the shift rod forward up to the FG hood (the area where the license plate attaches) and have the rod outside of the mount (where the bushing goes)? In other words, do I really need to take the hood off or cut a hole in the FG to pull the shift rod far enough foward? I'm not trying to be lazy, but I have come up with every excuse I can for not taking the hood off. Thanks. Bud

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