What's your opinion
What's your opinion
Here is the before and after. Did I go to far? Do I need to come back down one notch?
You have too much positive camber. The outside strip of your tire will quickly wear off and worse, you might have a rear tire "tuck under" in a hard turn and cause a rollover. You want just a little positive camber. The inner end of the torsion bars has 40 splines. The outer end has 44. You can fine tune the torsion preload in @1 degree adjustments by turning the bar back 2 splines and the trailing arm ahead 2 splines.
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- 5150bossman
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If you are looking to run mostly off-road, it is fine. If it will be for mostly street, you could lower it a bit. I ran with our axles that way for over three years. Didn't do anything to the tires, however it did brake a fulcrum plate which chewed up the end of the axle shaft on the left side. If you keep it that way, just remember to corner cautiously on the street. Off-road it was not a problem.
I would rather bottom out the pan than roll the car over, my sand car sits real low (IRS) and gets stuck sometimes but I have never felt like it was going to go over even in spite of my best efforts. I did see a couple different baja bugs roll due to pilot error and maxed out torsions. Fortunately the round roof helps them end up wheels down...
I hate to spoil my "I'M the man" status with Lee, and may not have if you had not ask me this question, but I must confess that I I tried to adjust the torsion on more than---Well lets just say more than 4 occasions. It was the tip from CairoManx that help me fine tune the torsion in. refer to his post here and it goes fairly well. Just remember tgodber. Once you have the tension off of the plate, mark your bar and plate for a starting point and a place to come back to in case you mess up. After the reference mark, I also scribed a mark at the bottom of the plate so when I had it adjusted up I could tell how much by the scribe mark. Here it the finished result on my buggy.
"I tried to adjust the torsion on more than---Well lets just say more than 4 occasions." No shame in that! It's a lot of trial and error to get it just right. The good news is your buggy looks great, and you shouldn't have to mess with it again! Tim, Here's a trick for figuring out how much to raise the rear end: Drive the buggy around the block to get the suspension all settled down. Park on a level spot. Put a magnetic protractor on the spring plates and record the angle. Here's an example of the type of protractor I use. They are readily available from hardware stores: http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/ac ... tml?ref=42 Now put a floor jack under the buggy. I prefer to put a board on the jack and lift by the two trans horns. You want to lift it evenly. Raise the jack until the back end is up where you want it. Now measure the spring plate angles again. Subtract the first value from this value and you will have the number of degrees you need to add into the torsion bars. Write that number down. Once you get everything apart, make sure the car is level. Do this by putting the protractor on the tunnel and use a floor jack to adjust the buggy until the protractor reads 0 degrees. Now measure the spring plates (tension off, still attached to the torsion bars in the housing). That's how much preload you already have. Mark it in the manner described by L0084MC, then use the tip from CairoManx to add in the number of degrees you got when you did the little exercise above. When you get it all back together and drive it for a couple miles, the back end should sit exactly where it was when you raised it with the floor jack.