Possible Sidewinder Slip joint leak solution?

[vincent9993]

I'm seriously considering this V-Band clamp to remedy my exhaust leak on my Sidewinder.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-Stainless-S ... 01&vxp=mtr

It would/will require welding (and possible some machining) but perhaps this would eliminate the leak on both my J-Tube.

For what it's worth, I've tried all suggested compounds including ultra copper with various setting periods with no luck. After about 200-500 miles the stuff just blows out of the tube.

A few people have suggested I get a pipe expansion tool to expand the inner piece and I may still try this.

[DIESELDOOG]

When you fueled up in Illinois on the way back from BBB, I noticed that there was quite a bit of popping when you let up on the gas.
Have you considered having a muffler shop making the inside pipe just a littler bit larger. You would only need to have about .75" stretched and all of the work would be inside the joint when installed. A shop that bends their own pipe will have a way to hydraulically enlarge the pipe and it only takes a second to do. I have also seen a manually activated tool that will do the same job.

I think part of the problem is the ceramic coating that is on the Sidewinder. I think it is porous and the vibration from the engine causes it to wear, creating a small leak. This wear also causes a small leak in the exhaust system, as the ceramic wears off of the inside pipe. I think that perhaps the ceramic coating is not the best produce on the market, and that it fails on most Sidewinders. Remember that the suppliers are not at the higher end of the pricing spectrum, but probable the most inexpensive that can be found. I have also noticed that this seems to be a problem with Sidewinder exhausts that have been taken apart and then reinstalled. We are able to get the flange ends of the pipes to seal with new gaskets, however the slip joint do not reseal correctly. There always seems to be blowby on reassembly.

I checked Amazon and the have a ton of the tools available.

I have seen some of the old style VW exhaust clamps used with success, but man are they ugly. I know that you do not want to see the clamp on a nice polished pipe. also, the normal muffler clamp will crush the ceramic coating ant hasten the rust process.

Please, keep us advised on what solution works for you.

PS: Here is a link to a Milwaukee tool that does the job. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... ype=search

[vincent9993]

Thanks for the suggestions Joe, I will be trying the expansion route but fear it will not be 100%. The wear is not consistent and simply expanding will not seal it up 100%.

I have a tool on order, I'll keep you posted.

[Tom-Kathleen]

The hand tool is not strong enough to expand that tubing. I tried one and it just broke. A local "real" muffler shop had the 1 1/2" hydralic expander, and was able to make quick work of stopping the leak by making a tighter fit. Bring both parts with you so they can get it right. Tom

[Lee-Hoffer]

I always had that problem too, so I bought some "t-bolt" style hose clamps and used them. I cut four slots into the end of each outer tube, 90 degrees apart, prior to installing the clamps. This makes it so that the clamp can "compress" the outer tube. I also rolled up some small pieces of metal tape and filled the slots with them to prevent leaks. Worked like a charm.



Lee

[ManxManiac]

I've seen 2 of the Meyers Manx Sidewinder exhausts that didn't & shouldn't ever leak at the joints... the owners bought them raw & made some really cool looking flanges that were welded to each tube, then they were coated!!! If I remember correctly, they were 5 bolt flanges (used 1/4-28 bolts & locknuts to hold them together) that were thick, but thin as they didn't stick up from the exhaust tubing, except where the bolts went thru, as they looked sort of like a flower!!! With the "exhaust" gasket material, neither one has leaked in over 5 years/35 to 45,000 miles!!! They also made the same type flanges for the muffler!!! Very cool!!! Sorry my sketch isn't more clear, but it'll give you the idea of what I'm talking about!!!

[vincent9993]

Thanks Michael, I like the idea. I already have a new uncoated sidewinder that I plan to modify and get ceramic coated. The modifications include:

• O2 sensor bong
• Delete heat riser tube connectors
• Add hook on outlet to mount Spark Arrestor
• Flange system on J-Tubes

I probably have more than 20 thousandth gap in the joint now, that's probably the reason no sealant will stay in the gap... The funny thing is that the #4 slip joint has never leaked.

Thanks for the idea!

[vincent9993]

In my quest to find a solution to our exhaust leak, I spent the evening in the shop making an expansion tool. Got 1 side done, it's on tight... I may have a hard time taking it apart, but to be honest, I don't know why I'd need to except to replace the gasket and that can be done by cutting the gasket on the bolt holes...

Anyways, here's my attempt:

Tool:








Made 2 groves and coated it with ultra copper:










I think this may actually work... I plan on doing the other side tomorrow...

[langan]

Really cool tool. I think it will work too. Anything you give that much love has gotta work.

[vincent9993]

I went ahead and did the same on the other side.

Started with a dirty J-Tube




Then cleaned it with Mothers cleaners:






Here's a quick video of the tool in action:
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNkQ3Sg_pug[/youtube]

Then installed it back on:




Verdict so far is good! After about 200 miles of freeway driving, no leaks (yet...)

[Tom-Kathleen]

Great job, glad it works for you . When you said you were going to expand the OD of the pipe, I thought you were going to use one of the tools that has segments that expand outward by tuning in a bolt. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80661 I broke one of those trying to expand the pipe. You used a beading tool that normally puts a bead on a pipe so that when you put a hose on it with a clamp, the hose will not slide off. Earl's Supply (the AN hose people) have those in many different sizes. http://www.summitracing.com/search/bran ... w=SKU&ar=1 Tom

[vincent9993]

Great job, glad it works for you . When you said you were going to expand the OD of the pipe, I thought you were going to use one of the tools that has segments that expand outward by tuning in a bolt. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80661 I broke one of those trying to expand the pipe. You used a beading tool that normally puts a bead on a pipe so that when you put a hose on it with a clamp, the hose will not slide off. Earl's Supply (the AN hose people) have those in many different sizes. http://www.summitracing.com/search/bran ... w=SKU&ar=1 Tom

I did try the expansion tool you refer to and I also found that it would not cut it. As for the commercial bead makers from Earl's, that may have worked but the ball may not reach in far enough, not to mention that they sell these for your left kidney...

After more than 1,000 miles, we can confirm that the problem has not re-appeared. The tool is now on loan and hopefully it will help out other people having this issue.

[Tom-Kathleen]

The Earl's Supply tool should go out far enough. That's what we used to bead the AL tubing to make coolant pipes for Kathleen's Subi powered Manxter. Tom

[vincent9993]

By far enough I meant deep enough to put 2 beads spaced equally. I put the 1st bead near the edge of the outer slip pipe. Looking at the Earl's tool it my not penetrate far enough to put 2 beads.

Not to mention it sells for $400! If anyone wants to replicate our solution, they're welcome to borrow our tool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jsturtlebuggy]

Must be a heck of import fee. The 1-1/2 and 1-3/4in sell for on there website for $67.01