1700# Kennedy Clutch

63Fiberbuggy · Post by **63Fiberbuggy** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:07 pm

[font=Times New Roman]Been looking for close to a year for a 1600 to replace my 1200 (6V) in '63 buggy. Stroke of luck landed me a turn-key 1776 (12V) last weekend with 7K miles. The 1776 has the optional Kennedy 1700# performance clutch installed. I'm not sure if I have to change anything in my existing setup. I'm guessing the throw-out bearing might be an issue, not sure about the shaft/arm/cable/bushings/spring, etc. [font=Times New Roman]My trans-axle is at a transmission shop now to replace all the leaking seals, plus get sand-blasted. While there, I'm having it machined to accept the larger flywheel & bushings installed for the starter. [font=Times New Roman]What I'm not sure about is the clutch. Any "tech tips" to throw my way?

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:15 pm

Unless you are having the trans built up to handle the extra HP I would install a stock pressure plate. A stock pressure plate will also help the thrust bearing on the crank last a little longer. The HD pressure plate adds a lot of extra load to the thrust surface. If you don't need it I wouldn't use it.

5150bossman · Post by **5150bossman** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:34 pm

I run a Kennedy Stage-1 with my stock transaxle and a new 1776 motor. I don't see any issues in this set-up. The clutch engages just like a normal clutch. I can slip the clutch without any problem, and ease the car into gear if needed. The only thing I can think of is that early model transaxles have a different ring to engage the clutch than later ones. I'm not totally sure of the difference, but there is an extra ring on the clutch needed for one that is not needed on the other. Your transaxle mechanic can explain it better.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:43 pm

I just think the clutch should be the weak link...not the trans. If you don't hammer it on the street evrything will be ok with the 1700# pressure plate but it will reduce the life of the crankshaft thrust bearing. If you plan on needing the HD pressure plate for offroad or racing by all means use it.

DIESELDOOG · Post by **DIESELDOOG** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:55 pm

you will have to make sure the tranny is clearenced for the larger flywheel if you stick with the 12v starter, if it is a swingaxle, IRS there is nothing you need to do but change the bushing for the 12v starter.

Lee · Post by **Lee** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 5:55 pm

The following pictures are the best ones I could come up with. I hope they help to clarify things. Early clutches use TO bearings that do not use a guide sleeve:

They use the pressure plate with a metal ring attached to the 'fingers':

Later clutches use TO bearings that DO use a guide sleeve:

They use the pressure plate without the metal ring:

The metal ring can usually be removed from the early pressure plate so it can be used with the later TO bearing. This was also the case with the one Kennedy pressure plate I have had experience with.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 7:47 pm

This might help ID the type clutch you have...

This is the bearing that needs the guide sleeve.

63Fiberbuggy · Post by **63Fiberbuggy** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:30 pm

Thanks for the pictures - - - worth more than words. I definitely have the "early style" TO bearing. Now to the difficult part (at least for me to understand), deciding what's best for my buggy. The primary use will be street and I've never been one to "go racing". I'll show my ignorance once again, if you can stand it - - - I don't know what the crankshaft thrust bearing looks like, or where exactly it is located. How often does this part wear out & how much risk am I assuming keeping the 1700#? If I drive it "normal", should it be fine? Assuming I keep the 1700#, is it simply ordering up a "late style" TO bearing? Jerry, it appears from your pictures that the fingers on the arm are different. Will mine accept the late style?

shaihulud · Post by **shaihulud** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 9:32 pm

If you are going to use the 1700# clutch I recommend that you weld small triangular gussets into the TO lever to strengthen it. Close inspection will show that they are not very solidly welded together. Then get the entire TO lever heat treated to stress relieve and re-temper it.

joemama · Post by **joemama** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:03 am

I have a 1914 that I use both street and on the sand, I have used it hard on the sand, with deserttracker tires, have slipped the clutch out many times and after 3 years, it is still fine. It is a stock clutch. If you do use the 1700 lb. clutch, I would have the throwout lever replaced with a heavy duty one, I have one in my trans, and it is bigger diameter shaft,as well as the tabs that hold the throwout bearing are welded all the way around, not just spot welded, also the clutch actuating lever (where you adjust the clutch), is much more stout. Another thing to consider, is how hard you will be pushing on the pedal to actuate the clutch, and how well your shortened clutch cable will hold up. Is your pedal cluster in good shape, or worn out like mine, and will it work smoothly with extra pressure on it. Just some thoughts.

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:29 am

[QUOTE="63Fiberbuggy"]Thanks for the pictures - - - worth more than words. I definitely have the "early style" TO bearing. Now to the difficult part (at least for me to understand), deciding what's best for my buggy. The primary use will be street and I've never been one to "go racing". I'll show my ignorance once again, if you can stand it - - - I don't know what the crankshaft thrust bearing looks like, or where exactly it is located. How often does this part wear out & how much risk am I assuming keeping the 1700#? If I drive it "normal", should it be fine? Assuming I keep the 1700#, is it simply ordering up a "late style" TO bearing? Jerry, it appears from your pictures that the fingers on the arm are different. Will mine accept the late style?[/QUOTE] Most Kennedy P/P's come with the early pressure plate style, with the ring. If yours has the ring you can use the early throwout bearing and arm. The ring is removeable so you can use it with a late model throwout bearing. The thrust bearing is the front main bearing and controls the end play of the crankshaft, consequently the tighter the springs on the pressure plate the more force you will be putting on the thrust surface of the bearing. If you drive it normally you should be OK, but I would have the throwout fork welded to keep it from breaking.