How do you change or get to the gas line or run a new line with it in the tunnel short of cutting an access hole. Try as I might I can not get the old line out to put in a new one.
I recently fitted two new gas lines into a pan to fit a fuel injected engine. It was possible only because the body was not on the car. My consulting engineer said that to to run a gas line in the occupants' space in the car is against all sorts of laws and safety regulations. I would consider a braided hose inside the tunnel, or to run it under the car, inside a strong pipe or shield.
Thanks guys for the help. Illegal to run line inside in this state too. Also very dangerous. the body is off the car but it's like something inside the tube has a grip on it and will not let it go, it will not budge at all. It is also impossible to slide another line thru the tube beside the existing one. well i'll keep pulling. again thanks.
The stock fuel line is held inside the tunnel by metal tabs that are bent over it. One of the tabs is on the same bracket where the front of the clutch tube is attached. There is another tab near the parking brake handle which attaches the fuel line to the clutch tube. The fuel line is made of 1/4" copper tube. Unless its broken, there is probably nothing wrong with it. If its broken some place inside the tunnel that you can reach, maybe you can use a piece of the VW rubber fuel hose to splice the good metal sections together. If you really want to replace it, you could get get some more copper tube or some brake line and feed it through the tunnel and out the original holes. You really don't need to comletely remove the original tube, just the front and rear ends that pass through the holes in the pan. Yanking on the fuel line to remove it will probably bend the clutch tube. You could secure the new tube inside the tunnel with twisted wire or zip ties.
I replaced my fuel line during my restoration. I bought 1/4" steel line from NAPPA. I cut the ends off the old line and simple pushed the line thru from the front to the back. It was not too hard to do. I did have the body off though. I wouldnt patch the line with hose. I also wouldnt run it under the car. Take your time and do it right. You dont want to have your buggy catch on fire. If you had alot of gas in the tunnel and it ignited, you would be lucky to get out alive.:2cents:
I forgot to mention that the new lines inside my tunnel are inside clear plastic hoses to eliminate rubbing causing holes and rattles as I cannot hold them down with tabs.
Try working at night and using a light at the end of the tunnel . And get some axle grease on the end of the pipe . I ran a new fuel line and now have a spare . I also figured out my filter was clogged and my original line was fine .
I know on my dads Manxter it still has the OEM fuel linse in it along with the SS Braid line that we ran for the EFI engine. We used 2 bulkhead fittings and let the line lay on the floor of the tunnel. There is plaenty of room in there for it.
This topic got me thinking. My pan has an access plate on the frame head, right behind where the beam bolts on. Where is the fuel line supposed to enter the tunnel, and where is it supposed to exit in the rear? If anybody has pics, that would be helpful.
At least on a Link pin front there is a hole on the top of the front horn rubber grommeted. Exit on swing axle is on ther top of the drivers rear horn just pass the break tee.
The fuel line enters the tunnel on the top, directly under the fuel tank. The picture shows the correct location but the original line just sticks thru a rubber grommet View of the fuel line under the tank. View of the fuel line exiting the frame horn.
When feeding in the new fuel line, is it better to start at the rear frame horn, going forward? On my framehead, somebody cut an access hole in the top which would make for an easy exit.
View of the fuel line exiting the frame horn. 