manx front bumper install

When it's just not buggy related.
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david-glenn
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu May 26, 2011 5:00 am

manx front bumper install

Post by david-glenn »

Hi Folks, I just received a chrome front bumper from the Manx store and I'm having a bit of trouble mounting it. the bumper comes with two mounting brackets that are supposed to be welded to the front suspension member. i am assuming it needs to go on the bottom member that holds the torsion bar but there is no way to directly weld them on as the stabilizer bar runs right in front of it and in the way. the mounting brackets weld end have an almost half circlecut out with a whip or tail on one end (one side is longer) and the instrux just say the extended tip end must go up toward the vehicle and tack them to the front suspension. if you go on the top member, the bumper is up against the nose hood and literally touching it. if you go on the bottom member below the stabilizer bar, the bumper almost points straight down. i tried reversing the brackets on each side. One with the tip extended up and the other side down and it helps but it's still not exactly right. secondly, the bumper is a really tight fit on the manx nosepiece regardless of the top or bottom member mounting. I'm afraid to heat the bumper and spread it a bit because of the chrome. anybody mounted one of these puppies purchased from the Manxt Store? any advice is appreciated. I hate to have to unclamp and remove all of the stabilizer bar assemblies. seems there has to be an easier way. thanks, Dave Glenn
L0084MC
Posts: 91
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 8:00 pm

Post by L0084MC »

I had the exact same problem with my bumper. I put it on the bottom and just cut out a notch in the bracket for the stableizer bar to run thru. I only had to cut about a 1/2" by a 1/4" deep notch and mine works and looks good. It puts the bumper about 4 inches out from the nose of the buggy.
david-glenn
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu May 26, 2011 5:00 am

Post by david-glenn »

thanks for the feedback on the bumper. that's a great and simple solution. do you have a picture? what about the width of the bumper? mine is really tight going around the nose piece and i have to kind of force it in around the fiberglass nose. dg
CairoManx
Posts: 858
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:00 am

Post by CairoManx »

Go ahead and remove the anti-sway bar, you don't need it. The beetle weighed 1700#s. Your Manx weighs 1200#s. Proportionately more weight was removed from the front axle than the back axle, plus your center of gravity is lower now. If you replaced the stock wheels, the wheel track is wider too. Your Manx will be more stable without the bar than the beetle was with it. The main problem with the anti-sway bar is it will bind up and defeat the excellent suppleness of the beetle's independent torsion bar suspension off road. It will ensure you feel every bump more. You should also soften up the front end by removing some of the torsion leaves. You should also get a set of old used stock hydraulic shocks(definitely not pressurized gas or coil over). If you feel you'd like more directional stability on the freeway, make sure you have a good steering damper and get a pair of caster shims and install them behind the lower torsion tube. If you want articles by Bruce Meyers on how to properly modify your front suspension and a set of shocks for a Manx, call Winnie and ask to buy a copy of Manx Mania, Vol 1, No 1 and Vol 1, No 2. Here is how my bumper clears my hood. It doesn't look it from this angle but there's 3" of clearance all the way across. Image
CairoManx
Posts: 858
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:00 am

Meyers Manx Winning Pikes Peak

Post by CairoManx »

Ted Trevor and Don Wilcox won the sports car class at Pikes Peak in 1966 with a Corvair powered Meyers Manx. I don't see an anti-sway bar. Image
Complex One
Posts: 52
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2005 9:00 pm
Location: Nashville, TN

Post by Complex One »

David, Listen closely to what CairoManx posted for you about just removing the anti-sway bar. He is correct on all other counts as well. That was about the first thing that I did on every buggy that I have ever built since the 60's. Removing the anti-sway bar was also was the first thing I did on my Manxter as it just is not needed due to the reduced weight of the vehicle. I had also added an adjustable front beam on mine as well so I could adjust the ride height to boot. Besides...the front bumper on a Manxter will also not clear the anti-sway bar either. You will never notice any difference with or without it on a buggy so just get rid of it and get your front bumper mounted and enjoy your ride.
david-glenn
Posts: 12
Joined: Thu May 26, 2011 5:00 am

Post by david-glenn »

thanks everyone! I'll heed the advice of the seasoned gurus and remove the sway bar. that will make mounting the brackets a breeze and since I don't believe I'll be power drifting much, i don't think i will miss it. if i can ever figure out how to post a pic here, i'll try to show the end result. d
manx4dan
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by manx4dan »

Is there a procedure available for removing the sway bar? I'm considering it myself. Also gets in the way of a tow-bar.
CairoManx
Posts: 858
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:00 am

Post by CairoManx »

On the bottom of the metal band that wraps around the trailing arm and the rubber, is a clip. The clip just slides off when you hit it with a hammer and drift.
manx4dan
Posts: 37
Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2005 9:00 pm

Post by manx4dan »

Thanx. I didn't know if the bar was ready to 'spring' out at you when it let go or is it only under load while driving?
CairoManx
Posts: 858
Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:00 am

Post by CairoManx »

It'll just drop on the ground. Its only under tension when one axle is deflected up.
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