Body to pan gap!

[surfbuggy]

Hi. Maybe someone can help me with this one. I have what I think is a Manx II. Just rolled my new pan in the garage, it was welded up by a shop that has been in the VW biz for 20+ years. Here is the thing, I went to set the body on it, all fits fine, but at the back joint there is a gap. It fits just right on the front and both sides. The worst part is at the back hump, it's about 3/4" gap that tapers to each side. I first thought the floor pans were welded wrong. Then talked to my brother that build a Manx in the early 1970's, and he said his also had a gap. I have a few ideas on how to fill the gap. Has anyone else seen this, or know anything about it? Thanks Ed

[167luckycharm]

Hey Ed, Not to worry about the gap, even my Signature Manx #60 had it. As Winnie explained by email, you can use two 6" c-clamps and a short 2X4 block of wood. Hook the clamps inside the opening of the tunnel, watch for the e-brake tubing and the clutch tube so you don't crush them, and place the foot long 2X4 across the fiberglass lip of the body. The clamps will tighten down onto the block, therefore squeezing the lip down onto the center hump of the tunnel. Since my body was glassed in early 2001, it was still fresh from the mold when I finally fastened it down in '03. Still, I was not taking any chances on cracking the gelcoat so I tightened the clamps a little turn each day until it mashed up against the pan gasket. Took about a week and a half as I started out with a 1" gap. It gives you the chance to go back to the shop and touch your car each time you turn the handle of the clamp...now there's NO excuse for not doing something to the car every day! Good luck! John

[Complex One]

This 3/4" gap at the rear center tunnel to body fitment....is this with a dry fit or have you already installed a new pan gasket? In most cases that I have ever experienced this has always been a little bit of a problem area but is one that can certainly be overcome with a little time and effort so not to worry too much. A couple of things to check. First....Have you ever flipped your Manx-II body over and checked the body to pan fitment areas to make sure that there are no humps in the body that need to be sanded or levelled? If not consider doing so as a lot of times this area on the body needs to be sanded smooth for best fit. Second....when you had the floor pans replaced if they were welded in then the possibility exists that the heat may have warped the rear brace that runs across the rear a little causing it to elevate slightly on both the left and right rear corners which in turn could cause your 3/4" gap at the rear center tunnel location. If this is the case I have corrected it by standing on one rear corner while another person stands on the other rear corner and with enough weight and a little jumping up and down will bring the two rear corners back down into place enough to compensate. Floor pans are relatively thin and should not cause a problem when bringing the rear brace down a little on both rear corners. You must remember that fiberglass is just not as heavy as the original Beetle body and takes a little more coaxing to make things fit. Fiberglass is also surprisingly flexible as well provided to don't go to far to fast and that everything is warm and not too cold so go slow in what ever you do. 2 x 4's and clamps can be your best friend when working with fiberglass. Third.....in some cases the problem is actually not the pan at all but rather the body mold especially on the back center of the body and is actually resting on the aft portion of the center tunnel not allowing the body to completely seat. I had that same problem on my most recent build with my Manxter. Resolve for me was to grind a little fiberglass from the back rear bottom area of the body until it cleared everything enough that the pan gasket made a good seal. Just a few more suggestions but I'm certain that others here will also have more options for you as well to try. Hope this helps.