Cracked frame head...

[vincent9993]

This week-end marked the begining of a complete tear down. As expected my frame head is cracked on either side of the tunnel. The question is shoul I repair the current one or buy a new one from CIP1? How difficult is this to re-align the new unit? Thanks.

[CairoManx]

If yours is just cracked in the two places in the picture, I think it would be easier to weld and repair yours than replace it. Welding on a new frame head is almost as much work as shortening a pan. First measure yours to see if its still straight. If its still straight, I'd recommend welding up the cracks and reinforcing them with some doublers. If The frame head is bent, then it might be easier to cut it off and weld a new one on straight.

[markmark]

I agree with Cairo Manx

[newmanx59]

Weld it up and it will be as good as new.

[vincent9993]

Thanks guys for your input but I'm still leaning towards getting the whole shabang replaced. It's only sad that CIP1 does not have the bottom plate (it's out of stock) but they do stock the head end. As you can see, weather has done its best on this front end! Comments?

[ROSSDC]

[font=Verdana]Looks familiar, how is the bottom of the tunnel and the bottom of the transmission forks? You might want to sand blast the whole thing so you don't find any other surprises down the road. I ended up replacing most of the tunnel bottom and rear transmission forks (a lot of work). Check with Mid America Motorworks for the bottom.

[vincent9993]

I'm confused... If I buy this Frame Head Assembly does it mean I don't need this Frame head bottom pannel ? I was ready to order it but this sucker is going to cost me $50 in shipping! Thanks for your help.

[ROSSDC]

I attached pictures of the two parts I think your looking for. From Mid America http://www.800luvbugg.com/ they cost $100USD for the frame head and $30 for the support panel.

[vincent9993]

So I ordered the frame head assembly. Already had the firewall support from a previous order. It won't arrive this week end so I get to do more metal cleaning. Once it does arrive, what's the best way to replace this sucker? I guess I can't just eyeball it into place and hope my ride will go straight right? I was thinking of using round tubing and bolting it to the fron of the head assemble to get a good measurement. How is this solidified in place? Should I look at adding plating inside the tunnel for re-enforcement? Thanks for your continued support. VP

[newmanx59]

If you would have posted a picture before you asked the question, my answer would have been to replace it. Those are cracks due to rust, I thought you were referring to stress cracks.

[vincent9993]

I heard everyone recommend I weld it back up but as I kept brushing away dirt and rust, I could not see how this would be possible withou major metal work to build up the missing pieces... I hate those rust gremlins...

[markmark]

After seeing the other photos I must say replacing the frame head is the only option. You wouldn't be able to weld it anyway, you would blow a lot of holes in it.

[vincent9993]

Wow, metal work is not easy. It's not the hardest thing but it's hard on my clothing! Here is some progress.

[fubar]

If you cannot get to "shiny metal" welding is not an option. Berrien sells the tube clamps cheap for the front beam. It may be more likely that you can get your structure by making it part of a cage??????? You can also weld build with a back up of copper or aluminum or argon but you run the risk of shrink . I would think about a new pan??????????vs building a new chassis????The big money on these creatures is the motor and wheels. Bothe easy to change.

[vincent9993]

A new head assembly is in transit as well as the head support. I'm not considering welding/reparing the existing head. Just wanted to show progress, I just don't have new parts yet. Getting new pan up here in Canada is not that easy... She'll be fine with new head.