Bleeding Brakes

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 1:54 pm

I'm going to be replacing the front soft brake lines on my buggy with stainless lines. I have a '67 BJ front end/chassis and disc brakes. First question is: The lines come in 15 inch and 19 (I think) inch lengths. Any recommendation on which to get? Second question: I've not bled my brakes since getting the discs installed. I looked last night and noticed that I have two bleeders (an uppper and lower). Is it necessary to bleed fluid through both of the bleeders, or just upper or lower? Thanks, Bud

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Thu Jul 23, 2009 10:32 pm

1) Measure the old lines. 2) I would bet you can get away with just bleeding the top bleeders, since there is already fluid in the bottom of the caliper.

Coolrydes · Post by **Coolrydes** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 4:46 am

I agree match the lenth of the old one unless you are trying to get more travle out of the front end then you would need longer ones. A quick check to see if the other ones are correct. Jack up the front of the car. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. Go to the right front and check to make sure that there is still slack in the hose. The hose sould NEVER be taught. Now turn the wheel all the way to the right and repeat for the left front. Last check. Lower the car back down and turn the wheels all the way to the right, look under the front end and make sure the brake lines are NOT rubbing on anything. If they rub they will cut thru.... This is not good. If they are rubbing something the fix is easy. Loosen the hose at the steel line from the master cylinder (where it connects to the hose) and twist the rubber hose a little (turning it into a spring looking thing) but not too much, only enough to keep it from rubbing..... REMEMBER!! When ever you crack any hydralic lines open (even a little) you need to bleed the fluid... As for your second question (which bleeder)??? On factory style Ghia calipers you only ever need to bleed the upper bleeder. The reason is that the calipers were made to go on either side (left or right). The fluid chaimber inside is connected and opening the lower bleeder ever will do you NOTHING except waist fluid..... A couple of other mostly un-known facts..... 1) Brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years or 30,000 miles which ever comes first (not which everone I deside to do). Your brake fluid should always be see thru (like urren) not black, if its black you are WAY over due. Brake fluid absorbes moister from the air and then starts rotting all the brake system from the inside. The other bad thing about old brake fluid is as it absorbes moister, it's boiling point gets lower. My brakes boil??? Not eggs but the front of your Manx will look like a broken egg when your brakes fail. Yes, the boiling point for regular DOT4 brake fluid is only around 400 degrees, add some water with a much lower boiling point and guess what??? You think your brakes ever get that Hot??? Next time you drive the the store and back reach down and put your hand close to your wheel or brake rotor. DO NOT touch it unless you want a blister.... 2) When ever you replace a brake line, hose, wheel cylinder, calliper, always replace the one on the other side too...... Old parts do dont work as good as new ones. Ever replaced one brake line and then noticed that evertime you hit the brakes the car pulls that way???? Even partial obstructions in the above can and will cause un-even braking. Well that it for now!!! Kevin "Coolrydes" Zagar ASE Master certified tech and Master builder / pres or Mendeola Signature Motors

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:01 pm

[QUOTE="Coolrydes;14216"] ASE Master certified tech and Master builder [/QUOTE] I have a question, I know how to do the "ASE Master Certified Technician" been there done that, then went back to school to become an Engineer and soon to retire. I need to know how to get the title of "Master Builder" ?

Coolrydes · Post by **Coolrydes** » Sat Jul 25, 2009 8:10 pm

[QUOTE="newmanx59;14232"]I have a question, I know how to do the "ASE Master Certified Technician" been there done that, then went back to school to become an Engineer and soon to retire. I need to know how to get the title of "Master Builder" ?[/QUOTE] Don't retire, most all engineers are good at designing something but don't know anything about actualy working on said item. Sometimes making engines that require 4 hours and a partial dissassembly to replace a single spark plug. LOL!!! Ok here is the steps but you have to keep it quiet I don't want everyone knowing..... 1) You have to land a job at the North Pole working for Saint Nick 2) Show up everyday on time and study real hard 3) Perfect the building of the wooden train set and then they'll let you set up your testing date. (If this doesn't work get real friendly with miss claus. It's cold up there, and St. Nick is'nt what he used to be, and besides the only other guys up there are short, green, elfs)

Dan B. · Post by **Dan B.** » Sun Jul 26, 2009 1:33 am

Huh? Isn't a bit more refinement a better idea?

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:33 am

Coolrydes;14241 wrote:Don't retire, most all engineers are good at designing something but don't know anything about actualy working on said item. Sometimes making engines that require 4 hours and a partial dissassembly to replace a single spark plug. LOL!!! Ok here is the steps but you have to keep it quiet I don't want everyone knowing..... 1) You have to land a job at the North Pole working for Saint Nick 2) Show up everyday on time and study real hard 3) Perfect the building of the wooden train set and then they'll let you set up your testing date. (If this doesn't work get real friendly with miss claus. It's cold up there, and St. Nick is'nt what he used to be, and besides the only other guys up there are short, green, elfs)

That's exactly what I thought.

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Mon Jul 27, 2009 8:21 pm

[quote="Coolrydes;14216"] As for your second question (which bleeder)??? On factory style Ghia calipers you only ever need to bleed the upper bleeder. The reason is that the calipers were made to go on either side (left or right). The fluid chaimber inside is connected and opening the lower bleeder ever will do you NOTHING except waist fluid..... [/quote] Kevin, Thanks for the info. I have after market discs (the type that has an adaptor that mounts to existing spindles), would the same apply (meaning bleed the top, not the bottom)? Bud

newmanx59 · Post by **newmanx59** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 1:28 am

The air wants to go up, always bleed the top.

rzeller · Post by **rzeller** » Fri Aug 07, 2009 9:04 pm

The weddings finally over and all the family has gone home

I got the new braided lines on the front and bled. The problem (pulling while braking) is gone. The soft rubber lines I took off looked like new and were very soft. Now I'm wondering if I didn't just have air in one of the sides? Oh well. Life is good again. Bud