I got Trouble!!!!!??????

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
I thought I had already posted this, but, guess not.
My buggy, after turning left on a red light started acting like the clutch was slipping, so I pulled over and noticed that my Axle nut was tight and the cottor key still intact, but something was loose, the rear drivers wheel was also leaning with the top of the tire leaning way towards the motor. It also appears that the axle might have somehow become disconnected at the transaxle, snap ring maybe?
Anyhow, is it possible to remove the drivers side axle and all the bits without pulling the motor and transaxle? Hopefully, something just came loose. Should also mention the wheel lugs are tight as well and when I put it in gear, the car will not move anymore, like the clutch is bad, but definitely, it is a drivers rear problem. This glitter bug has also been retrofitted with disk brakes all around.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Rick

[hwhite57]

Sounds like the splines spun. I had a similar problem with my 67 bug. What transylvania are you running

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[Momboy007]

I am not exactly sure, I bought this buggy from Nate at TurnKey Manx, it is a swing axle and I believe it is from a 1962, completely stock

Rick

[Momboy007]

All,
If the splines spun, would it make the axle loose????? Which splines do you mean, the ones that go through the disk brake hub?

Thanks,

Rick

[5150bossman]

If the splines spun out, most likely you will be able to see the axle nut spin while the tire does not.

[Tom-Kathleen]

And unless you have a limited slip differential, the car won't move under it's own power. It will act like it is in neutral all the time. We had this happen to us. If you replace the drum/disk brake, use one of these type of nuts http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_i ... ly-p-13069 that has the flange for more contact area. Tom

[hwhite57]

Sorry for the delay response. It will just spin in gear like your clutch is slipping completely as if it on ice. You will be able to see the nut spin and the hub go nowhere.

[Momboy007]

All,
So it appears that the axle nut is still tight and the cottor pin is still in place, how could this strip the splines on the axle??? Could the axle be pulled out from the transaxle, I am Miffed

[hwhite57]

It usally strips the splines in the brake drum or hub. That's where it tends to give way. My issue was because my bug was slammed and the negative camber put to much stress on the splines. Pull your hub off and check it out. It should only take 30 min to tear down and inspect it. But I'm almost 100% that's your problem. Worse case scenario your tranny gave out and needs rebuilt but I would start at the hubs. It's easy and way cheaper to inspect and fix

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[Momboy007]

Thank you for the advice, I will pull the hub this Weekend and inspect, will this cause the tire and wheel to lean as well?

Thanks,

Rick

[hwhite57]

Yeah if the bearings went out also it will move around alot.

[Momboy007]

Hello All,
Update for you all, I removed the cotter key from the drivers side rear axle nut, then prepared to take the axle nut off, it was not even tight??????? I then tore the disk hub off and bigger than heck, and like everyone said, it was round as my tire, no splines at all.
I ordered a new disk brake hub today from EMPI at VW Paradise and will put it on this Weekend.
My questions now are, how do I torque the nut down to 220 Ft/LBS, I need a huge torque wrench, where can I find one reasonably? I will then remove the cotter pin from the passenger side and inspect and then tighten it down as well.
Any other words of wisdom?, oh Yea, Bearing and seals seem fine on drivers side.

Thanks all,

Rick

[Tom-Kathleen]

I use a 4' angle iron with holes to match the part to hold the disk/drum and a 4' piece of pipe over a 3/4" breaker bar. I don't get an exact torque, but I try to give it more than they suggest. The same angle iron can have holes for flywheels also. Tom

[cbounds]

look for a torque multiplier/torqemeister tool. most vw shops will have in stock or i use a good impact gun

[5150bossman]

X2. A Torquemeister or Torque Dude tool is the way to go. It is a little pricey initially, but WELL worth it to put it in your arsenal of tools. Makes R&R simple and easy. Almost no effort at all, and doesn't stress or score the bearings (not to mention no scraped knuckles!). Use it with a socket and torque wrench and you can get just the right amount of torque on the nut.